Happy Thanksgiving!!

After my last show I realized that I was almost out of everything crab. With 4 shows left in the year I knew I needed more. Anything with crabs on it are my best selling items. It's not surprising given that I live in Maryland. It is ironic, however, since I am deathly allergic to eating crabs.

I now do all my glazing inside my house. I have this weird space that's between the kitchen and the family room that doesn't make sense for long term furniture, but is perfect to setup two tables for glazing.


This is the first time that both of the tables have been covered only by one series. I've had a table covered, maybe even a table and a half, but this is all crabs everywhere. I do actually like having a lot of the same thing to glaze. It makes things go faster in the long run.




Even if I do have a few different things for the kiln, there are still steps that I do individually. First I wet sand any rough patches off my pieces. I get a lot more rough patches when the pieces are made with clay that has grog or sand in it. That means for me - more sanding with the laguna 60 than with the laguna b - mix or Kentucky Brown Bear. I also sand anything that I think could get sharper in the kiln - edges that are a little sharp after bisque can get really sharp after the glaze firing.

Next I wipe everything down with a sponge to clean it. Then I add any underglaze that I'm going to do in recessed places. Once the underglaze is dry, I wipe it back with a sponge. The last stage of prep is waxing bottoms. After this I let it all dry thoroughly. I want the wax to be completely dry and since I've just wet the pieces down I want them to dry out before I add my glaze. Glaze will look better when it goes onto a dry pot, you can get crawling if your pot is too wet when you glaze. I've had this happen and its just irritating to have a pot that is perfect except a spot in a recessed area has crawled and has no glaze.




For any piece that I have that has detail work I do that first. This is 137 crabs. For my crabs I do the legs and claws separate from the bodies because I need to use different brushes. In this case I did all the legs and claws first - 2 coats. Then I went and did all the bodies, also 2 coats.




Next I'll go through and add 3 coats of Mayco Norse Blue. Once that's dry I'll add my sweeps of Mayco Light Flux. Last I'll add clear to all the surfaces that represent sand to give it a nice smooth finish.

My little squiggle snowmen were really popular so I decided to make a few more. I use a handheld extruder to make the coils. It saves tons of time and makes them really even. To make the snowmen I'm using two of the small puzzling molds from Learn Fired Arts. I only have one set so I can only make one at a time, but they're small so they are setup enough in about an hour to slip and score.

I will be crocheting little scarves and hats for these in various colors.


I wasn't extruding anything else and I had enough coils left for just a head so I made a snowman who has melted. I can't look at this without giggling.

I've made a few of these now and each time it's precarious. The last time I tried to make one I took it out of the mold too soon and it collapsed. This time I will leave it longer to let it setup.

I learned this technique from Michael Harbridge. He has videos on how to do it on Facebook.

This is one of the most unique things I make and I always get great compliments when people see it at shows.


I start with making small balls that I then smoosh onto my bark texture bisque. I made the bark texture pressing it into a tree up at our property in Chaumont. The balls don't have to be perfect since they're getting smooshed. I make a few less than a dozen for the base of the globe.




I make a few less than a dozen for the base of the globe.




Next I start to make the leaves. I use a bunch of different types of leaves in the larger sizes. I probably end up making about 3 dozen or so to start, but always end up making a few to fill in the gaps once I start connecting them.




I use my finger to join them together - no slip needed since this is very wet clay. If you can still see the joins (like you can here) then you're not done joining yet.




The finished product looks awesome. I like to make the spaces where light can pass through as big as posible.

I didn't buy these two yarns thinking that they went together. They just happened to end up next to each other in my yarn storage (under bed shoe containers) and I went - oooooh. The main blue green is from Briar Rose and is 3 skeins of their whisper #117. The olive green is a skein and a half in Hunt Valley Cashmere that I had leftover from my Spring Flower Top made earlier this year.

I feel like this sweater is gorgeous, but the colors remind me of algae in a pond which is where I came up with the name.




Both of these yarns are DK weight and you could use any two complimentary DK weight yarns. I used a 5.5 mm hook for this pattern. The rectangles for the sweater in this pattern are made vertical - which means the same cast on for the back panel and both front panels. If you want it longer or shorter then add or remove the number you cast on.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sk st - skip stitch
hdc - half double crochet
bobble - yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, pull through all 9 stitches on the hook, chain

Back Panel:

cast on 90
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8
change yarn colors here

Row 15: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 16-18: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc
change back to original yarn color

Row 19: ch 2, hdc in the same space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 20: repeat row 2
Row 21-24: repeat row 3
Row 25: repeat row 7
Row 26: repeat row 8
Row 27: repeat row 2
Row 29-31: repeat row 3
Row 32: repeat row 7

Front Panels - Make 2

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8






Line up the front panels with the back panel - they should go right to the edge of the second color of yarn. Leave about 8 inches for the arm hole. I also like to leave around 2 inches on the bottom, but this is stylistic. Sew the panels together.

Sleeves (done on each arm):

Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around and then sl st to join. I picked up 48 stitches - the exact number doesn't matter as long as it's close
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a sl st to join
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a sl st to join
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. End with a sl st to join
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across, sl st to join
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8

change yarn colors here

Row 15: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a sl st to join
Row 16: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a sl st to join

change back to original yarn color

Row 17: ch 2, hdc in the same space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. End with a sl st to join
Row 18: repeat row 2
Row 19-22: repeat row 3
Row 23: repeat row 7

change yarn colors here

Row 24: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a sl st to join
Row 25: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a sl st to join






Collar

Turn the sweater right side out. When you lay it flat in front of you start at the bottom right corner

Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch

change yarn colors here

Row 8: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 9: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc






Pockets (make 2):

cast on 16
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 3: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 5-7: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch

change yarn colors here

Row 8: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 9: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc

Sew on the pockets where comfortable for your arm length. My pockets are 5 rows from the bottom and 7 rows back from the end of the collar.

Weave in all ends and voila a great fall sweater.

I was a little worried that the new new power turquoise wouldn't deliver, but it did. Way to go Laguna on the second reformulation to get back to the brilliant turquoise we've all come to love. I'm really pleased with everything in this kiln load and you'll see a wave of ornaments coming through in the next few kiln loads as I get ready for 4 shows in a row all over the Baltimore area.

It starts the day after Thanksgiving with the Holiday Popup at the Double Grove Brewing company November 25 and 26. December 2 I will be at the Howard County Holiday Mart. The following week Thursday through Sunday December 7-10 I will be in Anapolis at their outdoor Holiday Market. Finally, on December 16 and 17 I will be at The Cloisters Holiday Tea and Bazaar. Ooh and I almost forgot from November 17-December 21st I will have a table setup at the Carroll County Gallery of Gifts.

I'll have quite a few kiln loads in the coming weeks as I gear up for all of these shows.

My favorite things in this kiln are the two long platters. I did a special version of my birch and cardinals with the sunset and for the first time I've done a camping platter. They both came out exactly as they were in my head, which is always awesome.

Laguna 60 Mayco black ug wiped back rim and back Amaco Snapdragon x3 Trees Mayco Cotton Tail x2, Birds Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Sunset Mayco Fruit of the vine, hot tamale, jack o lantern, sunkissed 2167 Clear	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco black ug wiped back Kayak Mayco Orange a Peal x3, Sour Apple X3, Fruit of the Vine x3 Campfire Mayco Hot Tamale x3, Orange a Peal x3, Sunkissed x3, Fruit of the Vine, Java Bean x2, Cotton Tail x3 Fish Mayco Sunkissed x3, Blue Yonder x3 Laguna Power Turquoise x3 Mayco Night Moth x2
Hat, Eyes and Buttons Mayco Tuxedo x3 Nose Mayco Orange a Peal x2 2167 Clear	Laguna 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Bottom 2136 clear Left Mayco Blue Gloss x3, Right Mayco Red Gloss x3 Mayco White Gloss for spots - one to two thick globs Worms Mayco Sour Apple x3
Laguna 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Trees Mayco Cotton Tail x2, Birds Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Laguna Power Turquoise x3	Laguna 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Trees Mayco Cotton Tail x2, Birds Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Kentucky Mudworks Morning Glory x3
Laguna 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Trees Mayco Cotton Tail x2, Birds Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Amaco Lagoon x3	Laguna 60 Mayco black ug wiped back rim and back Amaco Snapdragon x3 Trees Mayco Cotton Tail x2, Birds Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Kentucky Mudworks Hydra x2
Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Orange a Peal x3, Sour Apple X3, Fruit of the Vine x3 Laguna Power Turquoise x3 Mayco Night Moth x2	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Orange a Peal x3, Sour Apple X3, Fruit of the Vine x3 Laguna Power Turquoise x3 Mayco Night Moth x2
Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Hot Tamale x3, Orange a Peal x3, Sunkissed x3, Fruit of the Vine, Java Bean x2, Cotton Tail x3 Mayco Frosted Lemon x3 Mayco Night Moth x2	Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Hot Tamale x3, Orange a Peal x3, Sunkissed x3, Fruit of the Vine, Java Bean x2, Cotton Tail x3 Mayco Frosted Lemon x3 Mayco Night Moth x2
Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear Mayco black ug wiped back Campfire Mayco Hot Tamale x3, Orange a Peal x3, Sunkissed x3, Fruit of the Vine, Java Bean x2, Cotton Tail x3 Mayco Frosted Lemon x3 Mayco Night Moth x2 Kayak Mayco Orange a Peal x3, Sour Apple X3, Fruit of the Vine x3 Laguna Power Turquoise x3 Mayco Night Moth x2 Fish Mayco Sunkissed x3, Blue Yonder x3 Laguna Power Turquoise x3	Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Hat Mayco Hot Tamale x3, Cotton Tail x3 Amaco Snapdraggon x3 on rim and back 2167 clear
ug transfer Mayco Hot Tamale, Orange a Peal, Sunkissed 2167 Clear	ug transfer Amaco Saguaro x3
Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Designer Linger Blue, Light Green, Red 2167 Clear	Opulence Emerald x3
Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Hot Tamale x3 2167 Clear	Lagunga 60 Mayco Opulence Sea Spray x3
Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Angel - Mayco Cotton Tail x3, Cheeky Pinky c3, Dandelion x3 2167 Clear	Top Laguna Bmix Bottom two Laguna 60 Mayco Black ug wiped back Mayc Basketball x3, Cotton Tail x3
Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Hot Tamale x2, Cotton Tail x2 Mayco Norse Blue x3 Light flux sweeps 2167 clear	Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Mayco Norse Blue x3 Light flux sweeps 2167 clear
Lagunga 60 Mayco black ug wiped back Mayco Hot Tamale x2 Mayco Norse Blue x3 Light flux sweeps 2167 clear	Mayco black ug wiped back Left Two: Amaco Lavender x3 Right: Amaco Sky x3

I love how whimsical the snowmen always look. Each one has it's own unique bend to it. This kiln load has a ton of my camping series in it, including a few new items in that series. I am introducing coasters, soup mugs, and platters in the camping theme. These take forever to glaze but the result is stunning.