crochet

Dark Rainbow Cardigan

February 21, 2024

I loved this yarn when I bought it, but it wasn't until I was actually starting to use it that I realized that it was rainbow colored, although definitely darker than your usual rainbows. I bought this yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool from Briar Rose Fibers. The actual colorway wasn't labelled, but it is their promises yarn. Their shop is currently closed so I can't link to it, but its a worsted weight yarn that is 500 yards a skein and I used nearly all of 2 skeins.

This worked up really quick while I was travelling last week. I definitely was getting looks as I was trying to sew it together in the Delta lounge late Thursday night. I have been travelling so much for work that I have barely touched clay. I have been watching a ton of videos though so I have all these ideas for when I have time this weekend. I also have 3 kilns worth of bisque to glaze, but I'm itching to make more vs glaze

Also ClayShareCon is this week so I know I'm going to have more ideas soon.

Dark Rainbow Cardigan






This pattern uses a 5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk - skip
hdc - half double crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Back panel

Cast on 81
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. I liked the look better ending on a row 2/4 vs a 1/4. I have about 50 rows

Side panels - make 2

Cast on 41
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. These need to be the same length as the back panel

Sew the front panels to the back panel leaving about 7 inches for the arms.

Sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, sl st to join. I picked up 10 of the 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc
Row 2: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, sl st to join.
Row 3: repeat row 1
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1, but don't do the last 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc - so you should have 9 instead of 10. Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 1
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: repeat row 9 - you should end up with 8 now
Row 14: repeat row 2
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 1

You can adjust this to your desired length for your sleeves, I have kind of short arms and I made this on the short side. I like the look better ending on a row 1.



Dark Rainbow Cardigan






Colar

Turn the sweater right side out. Lay it flat in front of you and start at the bottom right corner.
Row 1: ch 3, (hdc, hdc) into the same space, *sk to the next chain space, 3 hdc. Repeat from * up the right side across the back, and down the left side, hdc in the last stitch.

Repeat row 1 for 9 rows or until you have your desired colar. I really like the thick colar on this one.

Pockets - make 2
Cast on 11
Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc, *Ch 4, sk next 4 chs, sc in each of the next 2 ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch4sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 1 sc, 1 hdc in the last sc.
Row 3: ch 5, sk 2 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 space. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch2sp. Repeat from * across to the last 3 hdc. Ch 2, sk 2 hdc, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 4: ch 4, 2 hdc in ch2sp. *Sk 2 sc, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 4 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 2 sc. Sk 2 sc, 2 hdc in the last ch2sp, ch 1, 1 hdc in the last hdc.
Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the first hdc and 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp. *Ch 4, sk 4 hdc, 2 sc in the next ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across to the last 5 hdc. Ch 4, sk 2 hdc, 1 sc in the next ch 1 sp and 1 sc in the last hdc.
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 3
Row 8: repeat row 4
Row 9: repeat row 5
Row 10: repeat row 2


Sew on the pockets onto the front panels. I did these 2 inches from the bottom and an inch back from where the colar starts.

Dark Rainbow Cardigan




crochet

Wisteria Winter Short Sleeve Sweater

December 23, 2023

I made most of this top at one of my recent holiday shows, but needed to finish it. At most shows I don't have enough space to sew the pieces together so it has to wait until I'm home. This yarn from Morehouse Farm is really soft and very warm. I find sometimes that I want a warm sweater for inside where I'm not going to be too warm. That's why I made this sweater with an open stitch. I actually was going to make the sleeves longer, but I didn't have enough yarn. You could easily extend them if you wanted to (and had enough yarn).

I used 3 skeins of the Blueberry and 2 of the Wisteria from their 3 strand worsted. This is a nice size worsted weight yarn and their skeins have approximtely 145 yards of yarn. You could make this with any worsted weight yarn.

Wisteria Winter Short Sleeve Sweater




This pattern uses a 6 mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk - skip stitches
dc - double crochet

Front and Back panels - make 2

Cast on 28 with the Blueberry
Row 1: dc in the 6th stitch from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 more dc in the same stitch, sk 4 stitches, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the next stitch, sk 4 stitches. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch
Rows 3-16: repeat row 2

Switch yarns to the Wisteria
Rows 17-24: repeat row 2



Wisteria Winter Short Sleeve Sweater




Sew the 2 panels together. Leave a 9 inch opening at the top for the neck and 7-8 inches for the sleeves. I also like to leave 1-2 inches at the bottom, but this is just stylistic.

Make the sleeves:
Row 1: ch 3, *2 dc ch 2 2 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * until the end of the row, dc in the last stitch. Pick up 9 stitches.
Rows 2-5: repeat row 1

Weave in all ends and flip the shirt right side out.

Wisteria Winter Short Sleeve Sweater




crochet

Algae Fall Sweater

November 18, 2023

I didn't buy these two yarns thinking that they went together. They just happened to end up next to each other in my yarn storage (under bed shoe containers) and I went - oooooh. The main blue green is from Briar Rose and is 3 skeins of their whisper #117. The olive green is a skein and a half in Hunt Valley Cashmere that I had leftover from my Spring Flower Top made earlier this year.

I feel like this sweater is gorgeous, but the colors remind me of algae in a pond which is where I came up with the name.

Algae Fall Sweater


Both of these yarns are DK weight and you could use any two complimentary DK weight yarns. I used a 5.5 mm hook for this pattern. The rectangles for the sweater in this pattern are made vertical - which means the same cast on for the back panel and both front panels. If you want it longer or shorter then add or remove the number you cast on.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sk st - skip stitch
hdc - half double crochet
bobble - yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through, pull through all 9 stitches on the hook, chain

Back Panel:

cast on 90
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8
change yarn colors here

Row 15: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 16-18: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc
change back to original yarn color

Row 19: ch 2, hdc in the same space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 20: repeat row 2
Row 21-24: repeat row 3
Row 25: repeat row 7
Row 26: repeat row 8
Row 27: repeat row 2
Row 29-31: repeat row 3
Row 32: repeat row 7

Front Panels - Make 2

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8



Algae Fall Sweater


Line up the front panels with the back panel - they should go right to the edge of the second color of yarn. Leave about 8 inches for the arm hole. I also like to leave around 2 inches on the bottom, but this is stylistic. Sew the panels together.

Sleeves (done on each arm):

Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around and then sl st to join. I picked up 48 stitches - the exact number doesn't matter as long as it's close
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a sl st to join
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a sl st to join
Row 4-6: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. End with a sl st to join
Row 8: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across, sl st to join
Row 9: repeat row 2
Row 10-13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 8

change yarn colors here

Row 15: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a sl st to join
Row 16: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a sl st to join

change back to original yarn color

Row 17: ch 2, hdc in the same space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. End with a sl st to join
Row 18: repeat row 2
Row 19-22: repeat row 3
Row 23: repeat row 7

change yarn colors here

Row 24: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a sl st to join
Row 25: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a sl st to join



Algae Fall Sweater


Collar

Turn the sweater right side out. When you lay it flat in front of you start at the bottom right corner

Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch

change yarn colors here

Row 8: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 9: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc



Algae Fall Sweater


Pockets (make 2):

cast on 16
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd loop from the chain and to the end
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in each stitch across
Row 3: ch 3 (counts as hdc and a ch), sk st, hdc, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, hdc in the chain space, ch all the way across ending with a hdc in the last stitch
Row 5-7: repeate row 3
Row 7: ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in the first chain space, 2 hdc in each of the chain spaces until the end. In the last ch space 1 hdc and one hdc in the last stitch

change yarn colors here

Row 8: ch 2, *sk st, bobble, repeat from * until the last stitch ending with a hdc
Row 9: ch 2, bobble in the chain space all the way across ending with a hdc

Sew on the pockets where comfortable for your arm length. My pockets are 5 rows from the bottom and 7 rows back from the end of the collar.

Weave in all ends and voila a great fall sweater.

crochet

Silver Lining Cover Up

September 19, 2023

This is based on the Let it Bee Wrap from Heart, Hook, Home. However, instead of making a wrap I made a cute little cover up. Silver Lining Cover Up


I wish I remembered what this yarn was. I've had it for years just staring at me. All I remember is that it was made with real silver in it. I had a couple of balls in my stash just laying there for a while and I decided to just figure something out. This is probably closest to a sport weight yarn and I used a 4.5 mm hook. You could easily make this with any yarn and just adjust the width and length to what you want it.

I still cast on 68 like the pattern said. I had 5 balls of the green and 4 of the silver. I did as many rows as I could with what I had off 2 balls of the green then switched to the silver. At the end with the last ball I was able to add 2 rows to each size and that still left me enough to sew it together. I ended up being able to 5 rows of green then 5 of silver ending with 2 rows of green. Make 2 identical panels. Again the exact length can vary based on your taste.

Silver Lining Cover Up


Once you have the two panels - sew it up. I wanted the neck to be fairly loose so I left a 13 inch neck and I left 7 inches for each of the sleeves. Unlike my usual patterns I didn't leave any slack on the side. This is because I wanted to finish it with a row of sc all the way around the bottom. I really like the way this turned out considering I started with no real plan :)

Silver Lining Cover Up

crochet

Lightweight Summer Sweater

July 18, 2023

This summer sweater came together really quick. I really like summer sweaters to have fairly big holes and use a lightweight yarn. I like wearing them when there is a light breeze. I used Miss Babs yarn Katahdin in Mystery Land. This is a fingering weight yarn and the skein was 1750 yards. I used most of it, but not all of it. If I had to guess there are a couple of hundred yards left. Lightweight Summer Sweater


This pattern uses a 4 mm hook.
Stitches:

ch - chain
sk - skip
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet

Back panel - cast on 100
Row 1 - hc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *ch 3, sk 3, hdc, hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Row 2 - ch 2, hdc, *ch3, hdc in the hdc, hdc in the hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Repeat row 2 until you get to your desired length. Mine is 53 rows.

Side panel - make 2
Cast on 45
Row 1 - hc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *ch 3, sk 3, hdc, hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Row 2 - ch 2, hdc, *ch3, hdc in the hdc, hdc in the hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Repeat row 2 until you get to your desired length. Mine is 53 rows.

Sew on the side panels leaving about 7-8 inches for the arms. I also like to start about 2 inches from the bottom.

Lightweight Summer Sweater


For the arms pick up 60 stitches doing the same pattern as you did for the panels.
Row 1 - ch2, hdc, *ch 3, sk 3, hdc, hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Row 2 - ch 2, hdc, *ch3, hdc in the hdc, hdc in the hdc. Repeat from * until the end
Repeat row 2 until you get to the desired arm length minus about 2 inches. Mine is 17 rows.
Sleeve Border
Row 1 - ch 3, *hdc in the chain space, ch 1, hdc in the hdc below. ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 2 - ch 3, * hdc in the chain space, ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 3 - Repeat row 2
Row 4 - ch 3, * sc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join. Row 5 and 6 - repeat row 4

Lightweight Summer Sweater


Sweater Border
Make sure the sweater is right side out. Start at the bottom left corner on the inside.
Row 1 - ch 3, *sk st, hdc. Repeat from * up the one side, across the back and down the other side. It doesn't matter how many stitches you pick up as long as it looks ok.
Row 2 - ch 3, * hdc in the chain space, ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 3 through 5 - Repeat row 2
Row 6 - ch 3, * sc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join. Row 7 through 10 - repeat row 4

Lightweight Summer Sweater


Pockets - make 2
Cast on 20
Row 1 - ch 3, hdc, * ch, sk st, hdc. Repeat from * across.
Row 2 - - ch 3, * hdc in the chain space, ch 1. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join.
Row 3 through 11 - Repeat row 2
Row 12 - ch 3, * sc in the chain space, ch 3. Repeat from *, slip stitch to join. Row 13 and 14 - repeat row 4
Sew on the pockets where it feels good for the arms. Mine are rows up from the bottom and one row back from the end of the original panel.

crochet

Mesh Flower Shirt

May 27, 2023

This pattern looks amazing, but is actually pretty simple once you get the hang of it. I got the stitch pattern from Crochet Kingdom. Mesh Flower Shirt


For this shirt I used Dragonfly Fibers Sylph Worsted in Love in a Mist. Each skein is 200 yards and I used 2 skeins - one for the front and one for the back. I used a 4.5 mm hook.

Mesh Flower Shirt


I cast on 55 + 7 and worked it until the yarn ran out. I then sewed it together leaving 8 inches for the arms and about 9 for the neck.

Mesh Flower Shirt




crochet

The Blues Jacket

May 13, 2023

I made the bulk of this jacket while at the Cloisters Spring Tea and Bazaar. The first day I went through two skeins of Kim Dyes Yarn Starless Night. I grabbed two more skeins thinking they were the same and in the dark light in the Cloisters they looked the same. It wasn't until I was back at work and the sun was shining on it that I realized it was different. It was actually yarn from Into the Whirled that I had leftover from another project. The Blues Jacket


So the blues in this sweater are actually slightly different. They feel slightly different, but I'm probably the only one who will ever notice. You have to look at it in the sun and then really look closely. this pattern looks awesome, but its actually just one repeating row so it's pretty easy.

The Blues Jacket


I used a 4.5 mm hook for this. Since I switched yarns I'm not entirely sure how much of the dark blue I used. I think it was close to 1200 yards for the dark blue and then it was about 600 yards of the light blue.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st - skip stitch
dc - double crochet
half shell - 4 dc then ch 2 then dc in the same stitch
shell - 5 dc in the same stitch
For the main wavy lace pattern you want to cast on in multiples of 6 + 6.

For the back cast on 60.
Row 1: Dc in the 6th chain from the hook, *ch 2, sk st 5 times, half shell. In the last stitch just do the 4 dc (no ch 2 dc).
Row 2: ch 5, dc in the same stitch, *ch2, skip the first ch 2 space, half shell in the ch 2 space of the half shell in the previous row. In the last stitch just do the 4 dc (no ch 2 dc).
Repeat until desired length, I had 30 rows

Front Panel (make 2): Cast on 24
Follow the instructions above. Make the front panels the same length as the back.

Sew the panels together. Leave about 8 inches for the arm.

Add the sleeves. I picked up 7 half shells. The sleeves are 11 rows and in rows 5 and 6 I tapered by crocheting together 2 of the half shells.

The Blues Jacket


Lay the sweater flat in front of you and start at the bottom right. Row 1: sc all the way up the side, across the top, and down the other side
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in the same stitch, sk st, shell. End with sk st and sc. If you don't have exactly the right number of stitches make it work. Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sc in the 3rd dc in the shell in the previous row, shell in the sc of the previous row. End with 3 dc in the sc.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2

Do the same for the end of the sleeves, but only do rows 1-4.

Pockets (make 2)

Cast on 18
Row 1: sc all the way up the side, across the top, and down the other side
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in the same stitch, sk st, shell. End with sk st and sc. If you don't have exactly the right number of stitches make it work. Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sc in the 3rd dc in the shell in the previous row, shell in the sc of the previous row. End with 3 dc in the sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 11 rows.
Sew on the pockets where the arms meet.

>

crochet

Sea Foam Wrap

April 22, 2023

This is a very simple wrap that works up pretty quick. This could be made using any yarn and sized up or down. This particular yarn is from Miss Babs and was the colorway for the Sheep and Wool Festival for 2022. It is their Caroline yarn which is fingering weight and each skein is 400 yards. This pattern uses 2 skeins and a 3.5 mm hook.

Sea Foam Wrap




Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over twice, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, pull through (11 on the hook)
sk st - skip stitch

Sea Foam Wrap




Cast on 201. Put a marker at stitch 100
Row 1: dc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to where your stitch marker is. dc, ch 2, dc (all in the same stitch). *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to end.
Row 2: ch 2, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch, bobble in the chain space, ch, dc into the dc. *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the end.
Row 3: ch 2, dc in the first chain space, 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch 2, dc in the dc below. 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker.

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach your desired width.

Sea Foam Wrap




Edging row - around the whole thing: bobble in the chain space, *ch 3, sk st, bobble. Repeat to stitch marker. Bobble in the dc below, bobble in the ch, bobble in the dc below. *ch 3, sk st, bobble. When you get to the corners do 3 bobbles in the same stitch. When you get all the way around 2 bobbles and then a slip stitch to join to the first bobble. Sea Foam Wrap




crochet

Spring Flower Top

April 03, 2023

I saw a stitch a few weeks ago that reminded me of the leaves of a flower. I had this gorgeous cashmere yarn in green and thought that it would make the perfect flower stem with with flower buds on the top. The cashmere yarn is so very soft. It's from Hunt Valley Cashmere. I used 2 skeins of the Olive and one of the White. Spring Flower Top


This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
stem - dc, dc, ch, dc, dc
popcorn - yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 2 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 3 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 4 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 5 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 6 loops on the hook), pull through all 6 loops



Spring Flower Top


Front and back panel - make 2
Cast on 70

Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch, 2 more dc in the same stitch, * skip 2 stitches, stem. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, * stem in the chain stitch of the stem below. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 3 - 18: repeat row 2. You can make it longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing rows
Row 19: ch 5, *popcorn in the chain stitch of the stem below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 20-24: ch 5, popcorn in the popcorn stitch below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch


Spring Flower Top


Sew together - leave about 9 inches across for the neck and 8 inches for each arm.

crochet

Garden Party Shirt

March 13, 2023

This is the shirt that I mostly made the first weekend of the Maryland Home and Garden show which is why I'm calling this my Garden Party Shirt. I'm always making something when I have shows. I always try to do a pattern that's not too complicated because I'm aways starting and stopping. Inevitably I find an issue and have to frog a few rows. Since I had just done this stitch for the Ombre Coat it was in by brain and easy to do, but I still ended up frogging a few times.

This shirt came out really cute. I intentionally made it a little shorter because the last time I used this yarn it stretched a lot. This is just a little less than one skein of Quitness by Briar Rose Fibers. This yarn is a heavy lace weight and is approximately 650 yards and I used a 4.5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Garden Party Shirt


Panels - make 2

Cast on 60
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 2: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 3-30: repeat row 2
Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.


Garden Party Shirt


Sew the panels together leaving 9 inches for the neck and 7 for the arms. I also left the bottom 2 inches open. You can choose to have the shells facing up or down, but make sure both panels are facing the same direction.

Now for the sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 2: Reverse direction. ch 3, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 3-10: repeat row 2 Row 11: Reverse direction. Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a sl st.


Garden Party Shirt




crochet

Imitation Dove (Elora Dannon) Scarf/Shawl from Willow

January 24, 2023

I loved Willow as a kid. When I heard the series was coming out I made my husband watch the movie since he hadn't seen it. The series is really really different from the movie. While the movie had a broad audience, the series is definitely geared more towards a younger audience and the pacing is off.

All that said I became obsessed with the scarf/shawl/sweater(?) that the character of Dove wears. Hers has a hood which I didn't feel like I needed. I also thought that having the arms as long as they are in the series (they sometimes drag on the ground) was impractical. I really liked the idea though of a scarf that effectively has arm holes in it which make it more like a shawl/sweater/ Imitation Dove (Elora Dannon) Scarf/Shawl from Willow


This worked up really quickly and isn't really complicated. If you wanted the arms to be longer then you would just chain more to start and adjust the arm hole placement. This pattern uses 2 skeins of Big Let's Twist in Peacock II from Ellyn Cooper's Yarn Sonnet. Each skein is 560 of worsted yarn so if you had another worsted yarn that was about 1000 yards you could use that. I used a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
hdc - half double crochet
fphdc - front post half double crochet

Chain 237. I am 5'3 and on me this crosses my shoulders and nearly touches the ground
Row 1: hdc in the second chain from the loop. hdc to the end
Row 2: ch 2, fphdc in each chain across
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in each chain across Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: ch 2, hdc in the first 76 stitches, ch 18, skip 18 stitches, hdc in the net 50 stitches, ch 18, skip 18 stitches, hdc to the end
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you run out of yarn. I ended up with 26 rows

Imitation Dove (Elora Dannon) Scarf/Shawl from Willow




Imitation Dove (Elora Dannon) Scarf/Shawl from Willow


If I made this again I'd probably want another 500 yards of yarn to make it both longer and wider, but I'm really happy with how it came out.

crochet

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons

January 09, 2023

This pattern was built around buttons. I got these medium Hazelnut buttons at the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival from Favour Valley Wordworking. I found them when I was looking for the bear buttons for the Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes and I wanted to put them to use. I stood in my yarn room (ok it's a guest room, but it has a lot of yarn in it) and saw 6 skeins of Aran Tweed from Briar Rose Fibers and it was a perfect match.

Since I only had 6 skeins I knew this had to be a shorter sweater than I often make.

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


The sun was not cooperating in my office so I decided to try out using my pottery light setup (above). I think it looks a lot better than this pic even if I can't show it completely hanging.

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


This pattern uses the rice stitch which is basically just alternating front post and back post double crochet. It's looks like it's open, but it's still a pretty warm stitch.

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


I used a 5.5 mm hook for this.

Stitches:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sc blo - single crochet back loop only
hdc - half double crochet
hdc blo - half double crochet back loop only dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
dbdc - back post double crochet
sl st - slip stitch


Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


Cast on 60.
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 26 times (total of 28 rows)
Front panels - make 2
Cast on 26
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 26 times (total of 28 rows)
Sew the panels together. Make sure that your first row from all 3 panels (which just has the dc) is at the bottom. I like to leave about 2 inches at the bottom before I start sewing. Leave 8 inches for each of the arm holes.

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


I always start my arms in the arm pit. Make sure the sweater is inside out. The biggest struggle I have with the arms is picking up the same number of stitches. For this pattern I picked up 43 stitches. I decided to make the arms for this sweater extra long. In retrospect, if I had shortened them a couple of rows I could have had a bigger collar.
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around picking up 43 stitches
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, Sl st to join
Row 3-11: repeat row 2
Row 12: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, in the last stitch join 2 together to decrease. Sl st to join
Row 14-18: repeat row 12
For me the decreasing is never an exact science. I try the sleeve on constantly and see if the taper feels right.

For the wrist - cast on 10.
Row 1: hdc in the second stich from the chain, hdc to the end (10 stitches)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc blo to the end
Row 3: ch 2, hdc to the end
Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 16 rows
Leave a long tail to sew the end together and then onto the end of the sleeve. Important - make sure that you have your sweater and your sleeve both inside out when you sew together.

Repeat for the other arm.

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


I knew I was running out of yarn so I made the pockets before the collar.

Pockets - make 2
Chain 18
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 4 times (total of 6 rows)

Turn your sweater right side out. You're going to start the collar on the bottom right.
I modified this a bit after I played yarn chicken and lost.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc up over and down
Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo up over and down
Row 3: ch 1, sc up over and down
Row 4: Ch 1, sc blo up over and down

Rice Stitch Cardigan with Hazelnut Buttons


Now you can position the pockets and sew them on. I put mine about 3 inches from the sides and 2 rows up from the bottom. You can adjust as needed.

Last, but not least - the buttons! I had 6 buttons so I positioned them and decided to start 2 inches up and space them out 2 inches up the left side.
It's a really cozy little sweater. This aran tween yarn is pricey, but it's one of my favorites.

crochet

Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes

January 05, 2023

A few years ago when I was first starting to branch out beyond scarves and hats I started making sweaters. There was this one sweater that I called the Frankensweater because it started off amazing. I had a perfect moss stitch for the back and front panels. Then I realized - I didn't have enough yarn for the arms and the collar. I was following a pattern and the sleeves were made wrist to shoulder. I didn't really know how to measure sleeves at that point so I made them really long. On the second sleeve I ran out of yarn - so I switched to a completely different yarn. Different weight, different color, different texture, and made the top of the sleeve. I started to use the same yarn for the collar - and ran out again. So I switched to yet another yarn with different weight, color, and texture. I used that to make the pockets too. The sweater was so ugly, but I had made it and I was sure that at some point I'd wear it.

It sat in my drawer for at least 4 years and I never took it out. It was so ugly. A few weeks ago I decided that it was shame to waste such pretty yarn and started unravelling it. It's so old that I didn't have notes on where the yarn is from. The yarn on the collar was really fuzzy and wouldn't frog so I just cut it out (it wasn't a very good quality). I've been thinking about a poncho with pockets for a while and decided try it out. I wish I had taken a picture of the Frankensweater before I frogged it, but I was sure I already had one. Apparently I was so ashamed of this sweater I never took a picture, or if I did, I deleted it.

This pattern is really forgiving. If you miss a stitch or add a stitch - no one will notice. Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes


I'm fairly certain this was a worsted weight yarn. It was pretty heavy, but I don't know exactly how much yarn I used becuase it was too long ago. If I had to guess it's probably somewhere around 1000 yards because it's about the same size as my Down by the River Poncho. I used a 6 mm hook.

Stitches:
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc blo – half double crochet back loop only
Tr – triple crochet
Ch Sp Stitch - 2 hdc in the first chain stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the second chain stitch
Puff - Yarn over, pull up (3), yarn over, pull up (5), yarn over, pull up (7), yarn over, pull up (9), yarn over and pull through all the loops, chaun to secure the puff
Sk st – skip stitch
Sl st – slip stitch


Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes


Cast on an even number of stitches. You want it to fit comfortably around your neck. You can always add a neck and make it smaller, you can't make it bigger later. I cast on 74.

You want your increases to be on opposite sides, but I didn’t want the start to be on the increases so I started, did about 10 stitches and then I did my increase. Each row increases by 2 stitches

Row 1: Hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc in each chain for 10 stitches, 2 hdc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the same stitch, hdc in each chain for 37, 2 hdc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the same stitch, hdc in each stitch until you get to the first stitch, sl st to join.

Since I cast on 74, half of 74 is 37 so after I did the increase I hdc in 37 stitches and then did the second increase. If you cast on a different stitch, just make sure they are on opposite sides.

Row 2-5: ch 2. Hdc blo in all stitches except the corners. There you’ll do the Ch Sp Stitch. Sl st to join
Row 6: ch 3, sk st, *Hdc, ch, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch. Sl St to join
Row 7: ch 2, * 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch. Sl St to join
Row 8: repeat row 6 Row 9: repeat row 7 Row 10: repeat row 6 Row 11: repeat row 7 Row 12: repeat row 6 Row 13: repeat row 7 Row 14: repeat row 6 Row 15: repeat row 7 Row 16-17: ch 5, sk st, * tr, ch 1, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a tr instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 18: ch 2, * hdc in each stitch. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a tr instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 19: Repeat row 2
Row 20: This row has the arm holes. I wanted the arm holes on the opposite side of the seam and about 2 inches from the corners. If you have a different number of stitches - that's ok, just make sure that they are the same number of stitches from the corner stitch.
Ch 2, hdc blo to the corner Ch Sp Stitch, hdc blo in 12 stitches, ch 18, skip 16 stitches, hdc blo 38, ch 18, skip 16 stitches, hdc blo to corner, Ch Sp Stitch, hdc blo to the seam. Sl St to join. increase stitch, hdc.
Row 21-22: Repeat row 2
Row 23: repeat row 6
Row 24: repeat row 7
Row 25: repeat row 6
Row 26: repeat row 7
Row 27: repeat row 6
Row 28: repeat row 7
Row 29: repeat row 6
Row 30: repeat row 7
Row 31: repeat row 6
Row 32: repeat row 7
Row 33-34: Repeat row 16
Row 35: repeat row 6
Row 36: repeat row 7
Row 37: repeat row 6
Row 38: repeat row 7
Row 39: repeat row 6
Row 40: repeat row 7

You now have the option to switch yarns or use the same yarn. This yarn also came off my Frankensweater, but it's probably more of a sport weight yarn. I thought it looked good as the trim. You could use the same weight yarn with the same pattern.

Row 41: ch 1, * sc in each stitch. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a sc instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 42: ch 7, tr into the same stitch, sk st, *tr, ch 3, tr, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a tr instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 43: *Sl st (no starting chain), puff, sl st, sl st. The puff goes into the middle stitch of each of the v's. In the corners I did extra sl st and an extra yarn over for the puff. Sl st to join


Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes


Once I had the contrast color at the bottom I decided I needed it around the pockets and neck too.
For the pockets I just did one how of sc all the way around. I thought the buttons would look cute and enable me to close the arm holes if it was really cold. I got these little bears on Etsy, they're just so cute!

Neck:
Row 1: ch 1, * sc in each stitch. Repeat from * all the way around. Sl St to join
Row 2: ch 2, * 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st. Repeat from * all the way. Sl St to join


Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes




crochet

Tunisian Crochet Hat and Scarf Combo

November 23, 2022

A while back I ended up with a Tunisian crochet hook. It's been in my bag of hooks for probably a year. A few weeks ago I decided - that's it I'm going to learn how to do this thing. I had some leftover light purple yarn that looked about the right weight for my 6mm Tunisian crochet hook. It's leftover first from a sweater I made myself and then from a matching sweater I made River.

I remembered that Heart Hook Home had done a bunch of Tunisian crochet and I started with the Simple Crochet tutorial. The key to Tunisian crochet is that on one row you pick up all the stitches onto you're hook and then in the reverse row you get them all off your hook until you're back to one. I did maybe 12 inches of the simple tunisian crochet and I found that it was curling like made. As I did some research I found that this is actually perfectly normal for this stitch. This is actually one of the things that I didn't like about some knitting stitches. I frogged everything.

I then then found the Heavenly Hyggee Hat Pattern and learned the knit and the purl stitches. A few things that I realized. First - OMG does the knit and purl look like it's actually knitting and not crochet. It makes sense given how you do it, but I was expecting it to be quite so similar. Second, when I was doing the simple stitch I kept dropping stitches, but by doing a pattern of 2 knit and 2 purl for the hat, I never dropped stitches. Third, as fast as I am at crochet from lots of practice, I am slow at this. A crochet hat would probably take me 1-2 hours. This took me way way more than that. Fourth, a big part of the problem was that I would be doing this while on zoom calls. Then I would loose track of whether I was in the forward row or the back row. Lots o' frogging! Tunisian Crochet Hat and Scarf Combo


I do not know exactly what yarn this is, but it is a worsted weight yarn. For the hat I cast on 62 stitches and made it about 80 rows. Then I stitched up the side and closed the top. Later once I had finished the scarf I added 6 rows around the bottom with the multi-colored yarn and then added the pom at the top.

Tunisian Crochet Hat and Scarf Combo


For the scarf I cast on 26 stiches and I used all the light purple yarn I had left which gave me 158 rows. It was not long enough for a scarf so I searched out a yarn that ws the same weight and matched the color. I am not certain what this yarn is, but I'm fairly certain it's 4th of July from Briar Rose Fibers. It is possible the light purple is the same, but I can't be sure.

I changed colors on the side and went until I thought it would be the right length which was 94 rows. Then I flipped it over picked up my 24 stitches and continued on. The join is barely noticeable. If it isn't obvious I did 94 rows on this side too. I think it could do wiht a big of blocking, but overall I'm really please with how the set turned out.

Tunisian Crochet Hat and Scarf Combo


This being a holiday week this will likely be my last post until next Monday. We'll see, maybe a kiln sneak peak over the weekend depending on how the timing works out. Happy Thanksgiving!

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