This yarn is so soft. It's made from silk, merino, and sea cell. What is sea cell you ask? Sea cell is a fiber that's made from seaweed! I got this yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool having never heard of sea cell. All I knew is that it was just so soft and silky. This particular yarn came from Yarn Hygge. Something about these colors cried out color block to me. I used 2 skeins each of Blues, Silver, and Burgandy. Each skein is approzimately 240 yards.




This pattern uses a 5mm hook.
Stitches:
sk - skip
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
scblo - single crochet back loop only
hdc - half double crochet
hdcblo - half double crochet back loop only
bobble - yarn over, pull loop up, yarn over, pull loop up, yarn over (7 loops on hook), pull all the way through

This sweater is made using the mesh stitch with a bobble which is addapted from a popcorn mesh stitch. Cast on in multiples of 6 + 2. For the back panel I cast on 56 (54 + 2).




Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * ch 3, sk 2 chains, bobble in next chain, ch 3, sk 2 chains, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, * 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble, 3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc. Repeat from * across.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the same sc, * ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc, ch 3, sk next 3**, bobble. Repeat from * across ending with the **, dc in last stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc, *3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc, 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 3, sk 3 sc, bobble in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.

You're going to repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. The big decision was how big to make the color blocks. I ended up deciding that each block should be 26 rows. Based on that....rows 1-26 are burgandy, rows 27-52 are silver, and rows 57-78 are blues. You could absolutely change this up to make the blocks, bigger smaller, or even stripes. What's important for this pattern to look right is that you change out on an odd row. The even rows make the row below it look finished.




For the side panels do the exact same pattern as you did for the back, but make them narrower. For my sweater I cast on 24. Make 2 side panels.
Next step is to sew the side panels to the back panel. I found that this was easier than on a lot of sweaters because all I had to do was line up the holes. The top of the side panel and the back panel are sewed together across. There will end up being 3 holes between the two side panels. For the arms I measured to get about 8 inches and found that each hole was about an inch so I left 8 holes open on either side. Finally, I left 2 holes open at the bottom - this is purely asthetic. Since this sweater is rather holey I decided when sewing up the sides that I wanted to use the color of the color block as I sewed and have a little overlap rather than pick 1 color to sew with. This made my seems much less noticeable.

Next step is to do the arms. We're going to repeat the same pattern as above except the last stitch for each will turn into a slip stitch. If you've been reading my patterns you know that I'm not super dilligent on you must pick up x number of stitches on the arm hole. Most of the time my sleeve patterns stitches are in 1s or 2s. For this pattern it matters more because we want to be able to have the nice bobble mesh. What's nice though is that you can line up with the holes. However, by this time you should be comfortable with the overall pattern so if you pick up in a multiple of 3 vs 6 - it's not a big deal. I picked up 9 "holes" for a total of 59 stitches.
For the sleeves I made the determination to make the color blocks smaller. I ended up deciding each block should be 14 rows so based on that...rows 1-14 are blues, rows 15-28 are silver, and rows 29-43 are burgandy (yes I know there's an extra row, I'll explain later).
I always start arms on tops in the arm pit so it hides the seams a bit. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * ch 3, sk 2 chains, bobble in next chain, ch 3, sk 2 chains, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join. Note: if you're in a multiple of 3 vs 6 then you'll join after the sc instead of the bobble.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, * 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble, 3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the same sc, * ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc, ch 3, sk next 3**, bobble. Repeat from * across ending with the **, slip stitch to join. Note: if you're in a multiple of 3 vs 6 then you'll join after the bobble instead of the sc.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc, *3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc, 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 3, sk 3 sc, bobble in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join. Note: if you're in a multiple of 3 vs 6 then you'll join after the bobble instead of the sc.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 8: Repeat row 4.
Row 9: Repeat row 5.
Row 10: Repeat row 2.
Row 11: This is our first decrease. Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 12: Repeat row 4.
Row 13: Repeat row 5 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 14: Repeat row 2.
Row 15: Change colors. Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 16: Repeat row 4.
Row 17: Repeat row 5 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 18: Repeat row 2.
Row 19: Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 20: Repeat row 4.
Row 21: Repeat row 5.
Row 22: Repeat row 2.
Row 23: Repeat row 3.
Row 24: Repeat row 4.
Row 25: Repeat row 5.
Row 26: Repeat row 2.
Row 27: Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 28: Repeat row 4.
Row 29: Change colors. Repeat row 5 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 30: Repeat row 2.
Row 31: Repeat row 3.
Row 32: Repeat row 4.
Row 33: Repeat row 5.
Row 34: Repeat row 2.
Row 35: Repeat row 3.
Row 36: Repeat row 4.
Row 37: Repeat row 5.
Row 38: Repeat row 2.
Row 39: Repeat row 3.
Row 40: Repeat row 4.
Row 41: Repeat row 5.
Row 42: Repeat row 2.
Row 43: Repeat row 3.
Row 44: ch 2, hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to join.






Now let's work on the edging. Turn the sweater right side out, with it flat in front of you pick up the bottom right edge. Using the silver yarn chain 2. For each hole that you have in the lace you need 4 stitches. I did 1 in the "post" of the hole and then 3 in the in betweens. For this you're going to want to do the stitches into the stitches and not the chain space to make it look good as the edging. You're going to hdc up the right side, across the back and then down the left side.

Edging: Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around ending on the bottom left corner
Row 2: ch 2, hdc blo all the way around
Row 3: ch 1, sc all the way around
Row 4: ch 1, sc blo all the way around Row 5: Change colors to blues. ch 1, sc all the way around

Row 6: ch 1, sc blo all the way around




Last step now is the pockets. My original plan was to make them out of the silver since that's the panel they'll be on, but I ran out of silver. I actually really like the way it looks with the burgandy pickets, really makes them pop.
Cast on 17. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * ch 3, sk 2 chains, bobble in next chain, ch 3, sk 2 chains, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, * 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble, 3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc. Repeat from * across.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the same sc, * ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc, ch 3, sk next 3**, bobble. Repeat from * across ending with the **, dc in last stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc, *3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc, 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 3, sk 3 sc, bobble in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.

Repeat row 2-5. End on row 16 (8 holes). Make 2 pockets.

I knew I didn't want the pockets to cross the color block. I ended up placing them 1 back from the edge and 2 up from the silver/burgandy color change. Sew them around.