This shawl is mostly based off of a pattern from Petra Skorjank on Ravelry. I was working on this during a couple of shows so I went off the beat and path, but then used the pattern for the trim when I got to the end. I think it came out really beautiful. This was a collorway by Miss Babs for the 50th Anniversary of the Maryland Sheep and Wool. This is their Yearning yarn, but this particular colorway is no longer available. I used all 1200 yards.

This pattern looks amazing, but is actually pretty simple once you get the hang of it. I got the stitch pattern from Crochet Kingdom.


For this shirt I used Dragonfly Fibers Sylph Worsted in Love in a Mist. Each skein is 200 yards and I used 2 skeins - one for the front and one for the back. I used a 4.5 mm hook.




I cast on 55 + 7 and worked it until the yarn ran out. I then sewed it together leaving 8 inches for the arms and about 9 for the neck.

I don't know where I got this yarn, but I had 2 skeins of it. It's Malabrigo 108 Chia that's a worsted weight yarn that has about 210 yards per skein.

The pattern is just half double crochet and then 2 chains back and forth until the yarn runs out. Nothing fancy in the stitches, but still looks really pretty.

I made the bulk of this jacket while at the Cloisters Spring Tea and Bazaar. The first day I went through two skeins of Kim Dyes Yarn Starless Night. I grabbed two more skeins thinking they were the same and in the dark light in the Cloisters they looked the same. It wasn't until I was back at work and the sun was shining on it that I realized it was different. It was actually yarn from Into the Whirled that I had leftover from another project.


So the blues in this sweater are actually slightly different. They feel slightly different, but I'm probably the only one who will ever notice. You have to look at it in the sun and then really look closely. this pattern looks awesome, but its actually just one repeating row so it's pretty easy.

I used a 4.5 mm hook for this. Since I switched yarns I'm not entirely sure how much of the dark blue I used. I think it was close to 1200 yards for the dark blue and then it was about 600 yards of the light blue.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st - skip stitch
dc - double crochet
half shell - 4 dc then ch 2 then dc in the same stitch
shell - 5 dc in the same stitch
For the main wavy lace pattern you want to cast on in multiples of 6 + 6.

For the back cast on 60.
Row 1: Dc in the 6th chain from the hook, *ch 2, sk st 5 times, half shell. In the last stitch just do the 4 dc (no ch 2 dc).
Row 2: ch 5, dc in the same stitch, *ch2, skip the first ch 2 space, half shell in the ch 2 space of the half shell in the previous row. In the last stitch just do the 4 dc (no ch 2 dc).
Repeat until desired length, I had 30 rows

Front Panel (make 2): Cast on 24
Follow the instructions above. Make the front panels the same length as the back.

Sew the panels together. Leave about 8 inches for the arm.

Add the sleeves. I picked up 7 half shells. The sleeves are 11 rows and in rows 5 and 6 I tapered by crocheting together 2 of the half shells.




Lay the sweater flat in front of you and start at the bottom right. Row 1: sc all the way up the side, across the top, and down the other side
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in the same stitch, sk st, shell. End with sk st and sc. If you don't have exactly the right number of stitches make it work. Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sc in the 3rd dc in the shell in the previous row, shell in the sc of the previous row. End with 3 dc in the sc.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2

Do the same for the end of the sleeves, but only do rows 1-4.

Pockets (make 2)

Cast on 18
Row 1: sc all the way up the side, across the top, and down the other side
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in the same stitch, sk st, shell. End with sk st and sc. If you don't have exactly the right number of stitches make it work. Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sc in the 3rd dc in the shell in the previous row, shell in the sc of the previous row. End with 3 dc in the sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 11 rows.
Sew on the pockets where the arms meet.

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Last year at the Maryland Sheep and Wool I accidentally bought two fingering weight and one DK weight of the show color Monet's Pond from Kim Dyes Yarn. I contacted Kim and was able to get 2 more of the DK weight which I made into my Shell Dome Top.

I was looking for a light summer sweater and I still had the 2 skeins of the fingering weight which turned into this beautiful sweater. It's really light an airy, but also keeps the chill off.


No pattern for this one, but what I did was pretty simple. The bulk of the sweater is half double crochet and a chain in alternating stitches. The edging on the sleeves and the collar are three chains in alternating stitches.




I think I appreciate this yarn more than I've ever actually appreciated Monet's Pond.

I swear I didn't buy it ALL. I did leave yarn for others, but I did buy a lot.


I bought a lot from my favorites - Miss Babs, Briar Rose, A Hundred Ravens, but also from others as well.




Now comes the winding. This skein is 5250 yards - that's almost 3 miles!!!

This is a very simple wrap that works up pretty quick. This could be made using any yarn and sized up or down. This particular yarn is from Miss Babs and was the colorway for the Sheep and Wool Festival for 2022. It is their Caroline yarn which is fingering weight and each skein is 400 yards. This pattern uses 2 skeins and a 3.5 mm hook.






Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over twice, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, pull through (11 on the hook)
sk st - skip stitch






Cast on 201. Put a marker at stitch 100
Row 1: dc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to where your stitch marker is. dc, ch 2, dc (all in the same stitch). *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to end.
Row 2: ch 2, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch, bobble in the chain space, ch, dc into the dc. *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the end.
Row 3: ch 2, dc in the first chain space, 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch 2, dc in the dc below. 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker.

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach your desired width.






Edging row - around the whole thing: bobble in the chain space, *ch 3, sk st, bobble. Repeat to stitch marker. Bobble in the dc below, bobble in the ch, bobble in the dc below. *ch 3, sk st, bobble. When you get to the corners do 3 bobbles in the same stitch. When you get all the way around 2 bobbles and then a slip stitch to join to the first bobble.

I saw a stitch a few weeks ago that reminded me of the leaves of a flower. I had this gorgeous cashmere yarn in green and thought that it would make the perfect flower stem with with flower buds on the top. The cashmere yarn is so very soft. It's from Hunt Valley Cashmere. I used 2 skeins of the Olive and one of the White.




This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
stem - dc, dc, ch, dc, dc
popcorn - yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 2 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 3 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 4 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 5 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 6 loops on the hook), pull through all 6 loops






Front and back panel - make 2
Cast on 70

Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch, 2 more dc in the same stitch, * skip 2 stitches, stem. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, * stem in the chain stitch of the stem below. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 3 - 18: repeat row 2. You can make it longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing rows
Row 19: ch 5, *popcorn in the chain stitch of the stem below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 20-24: ch 5, popcorn in the popcorn stitch below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch





Sew together - leave about 9 inches across for the neck and 8 inches for each arm.

This is the shirt that I mostly made the first weekend of the Maryland Home and Garden show which is why I'm calling this my Garden Party Shirt. I'm always making something when I have shows. I always try to do a pattern that's not too complicated because I'm aways starting and stopping. Inevitably I find an issue and have to frog a few rows. Since I had just done this stitch for the Ombre Coat it was in by brain and easy to do, but I still ended up frogging a few times.

This shirt came out really cute. I intentionally made it a little shorter because the last time I used this yarn it stretched a lot. This is just a little less than one skein of Quitness by Briar Rose Fibers. This yarn is a heavy lace weight and is approximately 650 yards and I used a 4.5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch




Panels - make 2

Cast on 60
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 2: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 3-30: repeat row 2
Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.





Sew the panels together leaving 9 inches for the neck and 7 for the arms. I also left the bottom 2 inches open. You can choose to have the shells facing up or down, but make sure both panels are facing the same direction.

Now for the sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 2: Reverse direction. ch 3, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 3-10: repeat row 2 Row 11: Reverse direction. Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a sl st.

This yarn really threw me for a loop. I tried a pattern on the web a couple of times and ended up frogging the whole thing twice. Eventually I found this pattern from Maya Luna Corazon that I used for inspiration. A lot of this pattern can be found on her blog, these are my modifications. I would not call this pattern my own.

I used 6 skeins of yarns from Dragonfly Fibers. I thought it was 4 colors, but looking at the labels I'm seeing that it's only 3. The darkest is Mr. Carson, the middle grey is Tarnished, and the two lighter gres are Silver Fox. There is definitely a notable difference in the dye lots of the last two. I'm good with it though as it adds to the ombre effect. The skeins are BUGGA! and each skein is about 400 yards in sportweight. If I had to guess I have about 150 - 200 yards left over. This stitch (I don't know what it's called) definitely eats up a lot of yarn.

This sweater is intentionally made to be really oversized and roomy. When making this keep in mind that I'm only 5'3 if you're taller or making it for someone who is - you're going to want to make it longer. The back lands just about at my knees with the front panels draping down to about mid-calf.


This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sk st - skip stitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

First front panel.

Cast on 84
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2: ch 4, *sk st, dc, ch. Repeat from * across. DC in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, * dc in the chain space, dc in the dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, sk st, dc in the next 2 dc, *ch1, skip nexxt dc, dc in the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 5: ch 3, sk st, dc in each of the next 2 stitches, *dc in the chain space, dc in each of the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Row 9: Repeat row 5

At this point you need to have stitches in a multiple of 4. If you don't then fudge the next row to get to 4.
Row 10: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 11: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 12-30: Repeat row 11.

Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.

I wanted this to go shoulder to shoulder so my front panel measures 21 inches. You can make it wider or shorter based on the measurements you're going for. I started with the darkest color intending to go dark to light. This first panel took about 1/4 skeins of the dark color. I started with the same dark color intenting to make the sleeve the same color at the end. While in a lot of patterns you can make both panels at the same time, since this is an ombre sweater I waited to make the other panel until I had a better idea of how the colors would play in.

Back Panel

Cast on 84
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2-4: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.

This is where I changed colors. Row 3-32: Repeat row 2 in new color.

This is where I changed colors again.
Row 33-38: Repeat row 2 in new color.

Row 39: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.
Row 40: ch 3, dc in each stitch across

Second front panel

I wanted to have it look exactly the same as the other panel so I started with the 4th color

Cast on 84
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2: ch 4, *sk st, dc, ch. Repeat from * across. DC in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, * dc in the chain space, dc in the dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, sk st, dc in the next 2 dc, *ch1, skip nexxt dc, dc in the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 5: ch 3, sk st, dc in each of the next 2 stitches, *dc in the chain space, dc in each of the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Row 9: Repeat row 5

At this point you need to have stitches in a multiple of 4. If you don't then fudge the next row to get to 4.
Row 10: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 11: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 12-26: Repeat row 11.

This is where I changed back to the 3rd color.
Row 27-30: Repeat row 11.

Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.






Sew together the panels. I left 2 inches on the bottom of the sweater purely for asthetic. Leave about 7 inches for the arm hole. Across the top sew from the shoulder to the last stitch of the main pattern - leaving the section with the dc and ch stitches to hang down.

Making the sleeves you want to match the sleeve color to the stitch color where the sleeve is. If you've followed what I've done that's color 1 and 3.

Row 1: ch 3, dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting). Sl st to join.
I picked up 8 of the modified shell stitches with this.
Row 2: Reverse direction. ch 3, dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting). Sl st to join.
Row 3-13: Repeat row 2.
Row 14: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.

Adjust the sleves to whatever length you want. I assumed this would stretch a bit so my sleeves end right at the wrist for now.




I made the pockets to blend in with the same color on the front panel.
Cast on 14
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2-9: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.

Row 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.

I like to sew on the pockets where the bottom is the bottom of my fingers when I hold my arms straight. Before you sew on the pockets make sure your sweater is right side out.

Mine are 15 modified shells from the bottom and 2 back from the dc area.

I loved Willow as a kid. When I heard the series was coming out I made my husband watch the movie since he hadn't seen it. The series is really really different from the movie. While the movie had a broad audience, the series is definitely geared more towards a younger audience and the pacing is off.

All that said I became obsessed with the scarf/shawl/sweater(?) that the character of Dove wears. Hers has a hood which I didn't feel like I needed. I also thought that having the arms as long as they are in the series (they sometimes drag on the ground) was impractical. I really liked the idea though of a scarf that effectively has arm holes in it which make it more like a shawl/sweater/


This worked up really quickly and isn't really complicated. If you wanted the arms to be longer then you would just chain more to start and adjust the arm hole placement. This pattern uses 2 skeins of Big Let's Twist in Peacock II from Ellyn Cooper's Yarn Sonnet. Each skein is 560 of worsted yarn so if you had another worsted yarn that was about 1000 yards you could use that. I used a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
hdc - half double crochet
fphdc - front post half double crochet

Chain 237. I am 5'3 and on me this crosses my shoulders and nearly touches the ground
Row 1: hdc in the second chain from the loop. hdc to the end
Row 2: ch 2, fphdc in each chain across
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in each chain across Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: ch 2, hdc in the first 76 stitches, ch 18, skip 18 stitches, hdc in the net 50 stitches, ch 18, skip 18 stitches, hdc to the end
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you run out of yarn. I ended up with 26 rows









If I made this again I'd probably want another 500 yards of yarn to make it both longer and wider, but I'm really happy with how it came out.

This pattern was built around buttons. I got these medium Hazelnut buttons at the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival from Favour Valley Wordworking. I found them when I was looking for the bear buttons for the Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes and I wanted to put them to use. I stood in my yarn room (ok it's a guest room, but it has a lot of yarn in it) and saw 6 skeins of Aran Tweed from Briar Rose Fibers and it was a perfect match.

Since I only had 6 skeins I knew this had to be a shorter sweater than I often make.




The sun was not cooperating in my office so I decided to try out using my pottery light setup (above). I think it looks a lot better than this pic even if I can't show it completely hanging.




This pattern uses the rice stitch which is basically just alternating front post and back post double crochet. It's looks like it's open, but it's still a pretty warm stitch.




I used a 5.5 mm hook for this.

Stitches:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sc blo - single crochet back loop only
hdc - half double crochet
hdc blo - half double crochet back loop only dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
dbdc - back post double crochet
sl st - slip stitch





Cast on 60.
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 26 times (total of 28 rows)
Front panels - make 2
Cast on 26
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 26 times (total of 28 rows)
Sew the panels together. Make sure that your first row from all 3 panels (which just has the dc) is at the bottom. I like to leave about 2 inches at the bottom before I start sewing. Leave 8 inches for each of the arm holes.




I always start my arms in the arm pit. Make sure the sweater is inside out. The biggest struggle I have with the arms is picking up the same number of stitches. For this pattern I picked up 43 stitches. I decided to make the arms for this sweater extra long. In retrospect, if I had shortened them a couple of rows I could have had a bigger collar.
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around picking up 43 stitches
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, Sl st to join
Row 3-11: repeat row 2
Row 12: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, in the last stitch join 2 together to decrease. Sl st to join
Row 14-18: repeat row 12
For me the decreasing is never an exact science. I try the sleeve on constantly and see if the taper feels right.

For the wrist - cast on 10.
Row 1: hdc in the second stich from the chain, hdc to the end (10 stitches)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc blo to the end
Row 3: ch 2, hdc to the end
Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 16 rows
Leave a long tail to sew the end together and then onto the end of the sleeve. Important - make sure that you have your sweater and your sleeve both inside out when you sew together.

Repeat for the other arm.




I knew I was running out of yarn so I made the pockets before the collar.

Pockets - make 2
Chain 18
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 4 times (total of 6 rows)

Turn your sweater right side out. You're going to start the collar on the bottom right.
I modified this a bit after I played yarn chicken and lost.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc up over and down
Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo up over and down
Row 3: ch 1, sc up over and down
Row 4: Ch 1, sc blo up over and down




Now you can position the pockets and sew them on. I put mine about 3 inches from the sides and 2 rows up from the bottom. You can adjust as needed.

Last, but not least - the buttons! I had 6 buttons so I positioned them and decided to start 2 inches up and space them out 2 inches up the left side.
It's a really cozy little sweater. This aran tween yarn is pricey, but it's one of my favorites.