I swear I didn't buy it ALL. I did leave yarn for others, but I did buy a lot.


I bought a lot from my favorites - Miss Babs, Briar Rose, A Hundred Ravens, but also from others as well.




Now comes the winding. This skein is 5250 yards - that's almost 3 miles!!!

This is a very simple wrap that works up pretty quick. This could be made using any yarn and sized up or down. This particular yarn is from Miss Babs and was the colorway for the Sheep and Wool Festival for 2022. It is their Caroline yarn which is fingering weight and each skein is 400 yards. This pattern uses 2 skeins and a 3.5 mm hook.






Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
bobble - yarn over twice, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, pull through (11 on the hook)
sk st - skip stitch






Cast on 201. Put a marker at stitch 100
Row 1: dc in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to where your stitch marker is. dc, ch 2, dc (all in the same stitch). *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to end.
Row 2: ch 2, *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch, bobble in the chain space, ch, dc into the dc. *sk st, dc. Repeat from * to the end.
Row 3: ch 2, dc in the first chain space, 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker. dc in the dc below, ch 2, dc in the dc below. 2 dc in each chain space to the stitch marker.

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach your desired width.






Edging row - around the whole thing: bobble in the chain space, *ch 3, sk st, bobble. Repeat to stitch marker. Bobble in the dc below, bobble in the ch, bobble in the dc below. *ch 3, sk st, bobble. When you get to the corners do 3 bobbles in the same stitch. When you get all the way around 2 bobbles and then a slip stitch to join to the first bobble.

I saw a stitch a few weeks ago that reminded me of the leaves of a flower. I had this gorgeous cashmere yarn in green and thought that it would make the perfect flower stem with with flower buds on the top. The cashmere yarn is so very soft. It's from Hunt Valley Cashmere. I used 2 skeins of the Olive and one of the White.




This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
stem - dc, dc, ch, dc, dc
popcorn - yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 2 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 3 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 4 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 5 loops on the hook), yarn over twice, pull through twice (leave 6 loops on the hook), pull through all 6 loops






Front and back panel - make 2
Cast on 70

Row 1: dc in the 4th chain from the hook, dc in the same stitch, ch, 2 more dc in the same stitch, * skip 2 stitches, stem. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 2: ch 3, * stem in the chain stitch of the stem below. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 3 - 18: repeat row 2. You can make it longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing rows
Row 19: ch 5, *popcorn in the chain stitch of the stem below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch
Row 20-24: ch 5, popcorn in the popcorn stitch below, ch 3. Repeat from * across, dc in the last stitch





Sew together - leave about 9 inches across for the neck and 8 inches for each arm.

This is the shirt that I mostly made the first weekend of the Maryland Home and Garden show which is why I'm calling this my Garden Party Shirt. I'm always making something when I have shows. I always try to do a pattern that's not too complicated because I'm aways starting and stopping. Inevitably I find an issue and have to frog a few rows. Since I had just done this stitch for the Ombre Coat it was in by brain and easy to do, but I still ended up frogging a few times.

This shirt came out really cute. I intentionally made it a little shorter because the last time I used this yarn it stretched a lot. This is just a little less than one skein of Quitness by Briar Rose Fibers. This yarn is a heavy lace weight and is approximately 650 yards and I used a 4.5mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch




Panels - make 2

Cast on 60
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 2: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 3-30: repeat row 2
Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.





Sew the panels together leaving 9 inches for the neck and 7 for the arms. I also left the bottom 2 inches open. You can choose to have the shells facing up or down, but make sure both panels are facing the same direction.

Now for the sleeves

Row 1: ch 3, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 2: Reverse direction. ch 3, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. sl st in the ch 3 from the start of the row.
Row 3-10: repeat row 2 Row 11: Reverse direction. Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a sl st.

This yarn really threw me for a loop. I tried a pattern on the web a couple of times and ended up frogging the whole thing twice. Eventually I found this pattern from Maya Luna Corazon that I used for inspiration. A lot of this pattern can be found on her blog, these are my modifications. I would not call this pattern my own.

I used 6 skeins of yarns from Dragonfly Fibers. I thought it was 4 colors, but looking at the labels I'm seeing that it's only 3. The darkest is Mr. Carson, the middle grey is Tarnished, and the two lighter gres are Silver Fox. There is definitely a notable difference in the dye lots of the last two. I'm good with it though as it adds to the ombre effect. The skeins are BUGGA! and each skein is about 400 yards in sportweight. If I had to guess I have about 150 - 200 yards left over. This stitch (I don't know what it's called) definitely eats up a lot of yarn.

This sweater is intentionally made to be really oversized and roomy. When making this keep in mind that I'm only 5'3 if you're taller or making it for someone who is - you're going to want to make it longer. The back lands just about at my knees with the front panels draping down to about mid-calf.


This pattern uses a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sk st - skip stitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

First front panel.

Cast on 84
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2: ch 4, *sk st, dc, ch. Repeat from * across. DC in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, * dc in the chain space, dc in the dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, sk st, dc in the next 2 dc, *ch1, skip nexxt dc, dc in the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 5: ch 3, sk st, dc in each of the next 2 stitches, *dc in the chain space, dc in each of the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Row 9: Repeat row 5

At this point you need to have stitches in a multiple of 4. If you don't then fudge the next row to get to 4.
Row 10: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 11: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 12-30: Repeat row 11.

Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.

I wanted this to go shoulder to shoulder so my front panel measures 21 inches. You can make it wider or shorter based on the measurements you're going for. I started with the darkest color intending to go dark to light. This first panel took about 1/4 skeins of the dark color. I started with the same dark color intenting to make the sleeve the same color at the end. While in a lot of patterns you can make both panels at the same time, since this is an ombre sweater I waited to make the other panel until I had a better idea of how the colors would play in.

Back Panel

Cast on 84
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2-4: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.

This is where I changed colors. Row 3-32: Repeat row 2 in new color.

This is where I changed colors again.
Row 33-38: Repeat row 2 in new color.

Row 39: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.
Row 40: ch 3, dc in each stitch across

Second front panel

I wanted to have it look exactly the same as the other panel so I started with the 4th color

Cast on 84
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2: ch 4, *sk st, dc, ch. Repeat from * across. DC in the last stitch
Row 3: ch 3, * dc in the chain space, dc in the dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 4: ch 3, sk st, dc in the next 2 dc, *ch1, skip nexxt dc, dc in the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 5: ch 3, sk st, dc in each of the next 2 stitches, *dc in the chain space, dc in each of the next 3 dc. Repeat from * across ending with a dc in the last stitch
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 4
Row 9: Repeat row 5

At this point you need to have stitches in a multiple of 4. If you don't then fudge the next row to get to 4.
Row 10: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting) and sc in the last stitch.
Row 11: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.
Row 12-26: Repeat row 11.

This is where I changed back to the 3rd color.
Row 27-30: Repeat row 11.

Row 31: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.






Sew together the panels. I left 2 inches on the bottom of the sweater purely for asthetic. Leave about 7 inches for the arm hole. Across the top sew from the shoulder to the last stitch of the main pattern - leaving the section with the dc and ch stitches to hang down.

Making the sleeves you want to match the sleeve color to the stitch color where the sleeve is. If you've followed what I've done that's color 1 and 3.

Row 1: ch 3, dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting). Sl st to join.
I picked up 8 of the modified shell stitches with this.
Row 2: Reverse direction. ch 3, dc in the same stitch, *sk the next 3 stitches, sc, ch 2, 4 dc in the same stitch as the sc. Repeat from * across. Finish by skipping 3 (or more/less if you're adjusting). Sl st to join.
Row 3-13: Repeat row 2.
Row 14: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.

Adjust the sleves to whatever length you want. I assumed this would stretch a bit so my sleeves end right at the wrist for now.




I made the pockets to blend in with the same color on the front panel.
Cast on 14
Row 1: Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook and all the way across
Row 2-9: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, * sc in the chain space (skip the dcs), ch 2, 4 dc in the chain space. Repeat from * across. Sc in the last stitch.

Row 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in the sc, *hdc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, sk the chain space. Repeat from * across ending with a dc.

I like to sew on the pockets where the bottom is the bottom of my fingers when I hold my arms straight. Before you sew on the pockets make sure your sweater is right side out.

Mine are 15 modified shells from the bottom and 2 back from the dc area.

I loved Willow as a kid. When I heard the series was coming out I made my husband watch the movie since he hadn't seen it. The series is really really different from the movie. While the movie had a broad audience, the series is definitely geared more towards a younger audience and the pacing is off.

All that said I became obsessed with the scarf/shawl/sweater(?) that the character of Dove wears. Hers has a hood which I didn't feel like I needed. I also thought that having the arms as long as they are in the series (they sometimes drag on the ground) was impractical. I really liked the idea though of a scarf that effectively has arm holes in it which make it more like a shawl/sweater/


This worked up really quickly and isn't really complicated. If you wanted the arms to be longer then you would just chain more to start and adjust the arm hole placement. This pattern uses 2 skeins of Big Let's Twist in Peacock II from Ellyn Cooper's Yarn Sonnet. Each skein is 560 of worsted yarn so if you had another worsted yarn that was about 1000 yards you could use that. I used a 5.5 mm hook.

Stitches:

ch - chain
hdc - half double crochet
fphdc - front post half double crochet

Chain 237. I am 5'3 and on me this crosses my shoulders and nearly touches the ground
Row 1: hdc in the second chain from the loop. hdc to the end
Row 2: ch 2, fphdc in each chain across
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in each chain across Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9: Repeat row 3
Row 10: Repeat row 2
Row 11: ch 2, hdc in the first 76 stitches, ch 18, skip 18 stitches, hdc in the net 50 stitches, ch 18, skip 18 stitches, hdc to the end
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you run out of yarn. I ended up with 26 rows









If I made this again I'd probably want another 500 yards of yarn to make it both longer and wider, but I'm really happy with how it came out.

This pattern was built around buttons. I got these medium Hazelnut buttons at the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival from Favour Valley Wordworking. I found them when I was looking for the bear buttons for the Reclaim Poncho with Arm Holes and I wanted to put them to use. I stood in my yarn room (ok it's a guest room, but it has a lot of yarn in it) and saw 6 skeins of Aran Tweed from Briar Rose Fibers and it was a perfect match.

Since I only had 6 skeins I knew this had to be a shorter sweater than I often make.




The sun was not cooperating in my office so I decided to try out using my pottery light setup (above). I think it looks a lot better than this pic even if I can't show it completely hanging.




This pattern uses the rice stitch which is basically just alternating front post and back post double crochet. It's looks like it's open, but it's still a pretty warm stitch.




I used a 5.5 mm hook for this.

Stitches:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sc blo - single crochet back loop only
hdc - half double crochet
hdc blo - half double crochet back loop only dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
dbdc - back post double crochet
sl st - slip stitch





Cast on 60.
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 26 times (total of 28 rows)
Front panels - make 2
Cast on 26
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 26 times (total of 28 rows)
Sew the panels together. Make sure that your first row from all 3 panels (which just has the dc) is at the bottom. I like to leave about 2 inches at the bottom before I start sewing. Leave 8 inches for each of the arm holes.




I always start my arms in the arm pit. Make sure the sweater is inside out. The biggest struggle I have with the arms is picking up the same number of stitches. For this pattern I picked up 43 stitches. I decided to make the arms for this sweater extra long. In retrospect, if I had shortened them a couple of rows I could have had a bigger collar.
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around picking up 43 stitches
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, Sl st to join
Row 3-11: repeat row 2
Row 12: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, in the last stitch join 2 together to decrease. Sl st to join
Row 14-18: repeat row 12
For me the decreasing is never an exact science. I try the sleeve on constantly and see if the taper feels right.

For the wrist - cast on 10.
Row 1: hdc in the second stich from the chain, hdc to the end (10 stitches)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc blo to the end
Row 3: ch 2, hdc to the end
Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 16 rows
Leave a long tail to sew the end together and then onto the end of the sleeve. Important - make sure that you have your sweater and your sleeve both inside out when you sew together.

Repeat for the other arm.




I knew I was running out of yarn so I made the pockets before the collar.

Pockets - make 2
Chain 18
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, dc in each chain across
Row 2: ch 1, hdc in the first stitch, *fpdc, bpdc. Repeat from *, hdc in the last stitch
Repeat row 2 4 times (total of 6 rows)

Turn your sweater right side out. You're going to start the collar on the bottom right.
I modified this a bit after I played yarn chicken and lost.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc up over and down
Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo up over and down
Row 3: ch 1, sc up over and down
Row 4: Ch 1, sc blo up over and down




Now you can position the pockets and sew them on. I put mine about 3 inches from the sides and 2 rows up from the bottom. You can adjust as needed.

Last, but not least - the buttons! I had 6 buttons so I positioned them and decided to start 2 inches up and space them out 2 inches up the left side.
It's a really cozy little sweater. This aran tween yarn is pricey, but it's one of my favorites.

A few years ago when I was first starting to branch out beyond scarves and hats I started making sweaters. There was this one sweater that I called the Frankensweater because it started off amazing. I had a perfect moss stitch for the back and front panels. Then I realized - I didn't have enough yarn for the arms and the collar. I was following a pattern and the sleeves were made wrist to shoulder. I didn't really know how to measure sleeves at that point so I made them really long. On the second sleeve I ran out of yarn - so I switched to a completely different yarn. Different weight, different color, different texture, and made the top of the sleeve. I started to use the same yarn for the collar - and ran out again. So I switched to yet another yarn with different weight, color, and texture. I used that to make the pockets too. The sweater was so ugly, but I had made it and I was sure that at some point I'd wear it.

It sat in my drawer for at least 4 years and I never took it out. It was so ugly. A few weeks ago I decided that it was shame to waste such pretty yarn and started unravelling it. It's so old that I didn't have notes on where the yarn is from. The yarn on the collar was really fuzzy and wouldn't frog so I just cut it out (it wasn't a very good quality). I've been thinking about a poncho with pockets for a while and decided try it out. I wish I had taken a picture of the Frankensweater before I frogged it, but I was sure I already had one. Apparently I was so ashamed of this sweater I never took a picture, or if I did, I deleted it.

This pattern is really forgiving. If you miss a stitch or add a stitch - no one will notice.


I'm fairly certain this was a worsted weight yarn. It was pretty heavy, but I don't know exactly how much yarn I used becuase it was too long ago. If I had to guess it's probably somewhere around 1000 yards because it's about the same size as my Down by the River Poncho. I used a 6 mm hook.

Stitches:
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc blo – half double crochet back loop only
Tr – triple crochet
Ch Sp Stitch - 2 hdc in the first chain stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the second chain stitch
Puff - Yarn over, pull up (3), yarn over, pull up (5), yarn over, pull up (7), yarn over, pull up (9), yarn over and pull through all the loops, chaun to secure the puff
Sk st – skip stitch
Sl st – slip stitch





Cast on an even number of stitches. You want it to fit comfortably around your neck. You can always add a neck and make it smaller, you can't make it bigger later. I cast on 74.

You want your increases to be on opposite sides, but I didn’t want the start to be on the increases so I started, did about 10 stitches and then I did my increase. Each row increases by 2 stitches

Row 1: Hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc in each chain for 10 stitches, 2 hdc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the same stitch, hdc in each chain for 37, 2 hdc in the same stitch, ch 2, 2 hdc in the same stitch, hdc in each stitch until you get to the first stitch, sl st to join.

Since I cast on 74, half of 74 is 37 so after I did the increase I hdc in 37 stitches and then did the second increase. If you cast on a different stitch, just make sure they are on opposite sides.

Row 2-5: ch 2. Hdc blo in all stitches except the corners. There you’ll do the Ch Sp Stitch. Sl st to join
Row 6: ch 3, sk st, *Hdc, ch, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch. Sl St to join
Row 7: ch 2, * 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch. Sl St to join
Row 8: repeat row 6 Row 9: repeat row 7 Row 10: repeat row 6 Row 11: repeat row 7 Row 12: repeat row 6 Row 13: repeat row 7 Row 14: repeat row 6 Row 15: repeat row 7 Row 16-17: ch 5, sk st, * tr, ch 1, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a tr instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 18: ch 2, * hdc in each stitch. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a tr instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 19: Repeat row 2
Row 20: This row has the arm holes. I wanted the arm holes on the opposite side of the seam and about 2 inches from the corners. If you have a different number of stitches - that's ok, just make sure that they are the same number of stitches from the corner stitch.
Ch 2, hdc blo to the corner Ch Sp Stitch, hdc blo in 12 stitches, ch 18, skip 16 stitches, hdc blo 38, ch 18, skip 16 stitches, hdc blo to corner, Ch Sp Stitch, hdc blo to the seam. Sl St to join. increase stitch, hdc.
Row 21-22: Repeat row 2
Row 23: repeat row 6
Row 24: repeat row 7
Row 25: repeat row 6
Row 26: repeat row 7
Row 27: repeat row 6
Row 28: repeat row 7
Row 29: repeat row 6
Row 30: repeat row 7
Row 31: repeat row 6
Row 32: repeat row 7
Row 33-34: Repeat row 16
Row 35: repeat row 6
Row 36: repeat row 7
Row 37: repeat row 6
Row 38: repeat row 7
Row 39: repeat row 6
Row 40: repeat row 7

You now have the option to switch yarns or use the same yarn. This yarn also came off my Frankensweater, but it's probably more of a sport weight yarn. I thought it looked good as the trim. You could use the same weight yarn with the same pattern.

Row 41: ch 1, * sc in each stitch. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a sc instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 42: ch 7, tr into the same stitch, sk st, *tr, ch 3, tr, sk st. Repeat from * all the way around except the corners where you will do the Ch Sp Stitch but with a tr instead of hdc. Sl St to join
Row 43: *Sl st (no starting chain), puff, sl st, sl st. The puff goes into the middle stitch of each of the v's. In the corners I did extra sl st and an extra yarn over for the puff. Sl st to join





Once I had the contrast color at the bottom I decided I needed it around the pockets and neck too.
For the pockets I just did one how of sc all the way around. I thought the buttons would look cute and enable me to close the arm holes if it was really cold. I got these little bears on Etsy, they're just so cute!

Neck:
Row 1: ch 1, * sc in each stitch. Repeat from * all the way around. Sl St to join
Row 2: ch 2, * 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st. Repeat from * all the way. Sl St to join

A while back I ended up with a Tunisian crochet hook. It's been in my bag of hooks for probably a year. A few weeks ago I decided - that's it I'm going to learn how to do this thing. I had some leftover light purple yarn that looked about the right weight for my 6mm Tunisian crochet hook. It's leftover first from a sweater I made myself and then from a matching sweater I made River.

I remembered that Heart Hook Home had done a bunch of Tunisian crochet and I started with the Simple Crochet tutorial. The key to Tunisian crochet is that on one row you pick up all the stitches onto you're hook and then in the reverse row you get them all off your hook until you're back to one. I did maybe 12 inches of the simple tunisian crochet and I found that it was curling like made. As I did some research I found that this is actually perfectly normal for this stitch. This is actually one of the things that I didn't like about some knitting stitches. I frogged everything.

I then then found the Heavenly Hyggee Hat Pattern and learned the knit and the purl stitches. A few things that I realized. First - OMG does the knit and purl look like it's actually knitting and not crochet. It makes sense given how you do it, but I was expecting it to be quite so similar. Second, when I was doing the simple stitch I kept dropping stitches, but by doing a pattern of 2 knit and 2 purl for the hat, I never dropped stitches. Third, as fast as I am at crochet from lots of practice, I am slow at this. A crochet hat would probably take me 1-2 hours. This took me way way more than that. Fourth, a big part of the problem was that I would be doing this while on zoom calls. Then I would loose track of whether I was in the forward row or the back row. Lots o' frogging!


I do not know exactly what yarn this is, but it is a worsted weight yarn. For the hat I cast on 62 stitches and made it about 80 rows. Then I stitched up the side and closed the top. Later once I had finished the scarf I added 6 rows around the bottom with the multi-colored yarn and then added the pom at the top.




For the scarf I cast on 26 stiches and I used all the light purple yarn I had left which gave me 158 rows. It was not long enough for a scarf so I searched out a yarn that ws the same weight and matched the color. I am not certain what this yarn is, but I'm fairly certain it's 4th of July from Briar Rose Fibers. It is possible the light purple is the same, but I can't be sure.

I changed colors on the side and went until I thought it would be the right length which was 94 rows. Then I flipped it over picked up my 24 stitches and continued on. The join is barely noticeable. If it isn't obvious I did 94 rows on this side too. I think it could do wiht a big of blocking, but overall I'm really please with how the set turned out.




This being a holiday week this will likely be my last post until next Monday. We'll see, maybe a kiln sneak peak over the weekend depending on how the timing works out. Happy Thanksgiving!

I'm a little obsessed with cables at the moment. They look amazing and they are actually really easy. You might remember from my Antique Rose Cabled Throw that I learned from this page on BeThinx.

I had 3 skeins of Worsted Tweed American Ewe Yarn from CeCe's Wool in Adella's Olive. I had the 8 oz skeins and used almost every bit of all 3 for this tunic. It's oversized both wide and long to be super comfy for fall and winter.




This pattern uses a 5 mm hook. You're going to cast on in multiples of 10 + 7. I actually cast on and did the first few rows a couple of times before I settled on 67 for my cast on. This gave me a panel that is approximately 22 inches wide. For cables every other row will be single crochet all the way across. The rest of this pattern repeats every 6 rows.

Stitches:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
fptc - front post triple crochet





Front and Back Panels (make 2):

Row 1: sc in the second stitch from the hook, sc all the way across
Row 2: ch 1, * sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc. Repeat from * until you get to the last 6 stitches. sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc
Row 3: ch 1, sc all the way across
Row 4: ch 1, * sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc. Repeat from * until you get to the last 6 stitches. sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc
Row 3: ch 1, sc all the way across


Here comes the fancy cable part

Row 5: ch 1, sc, sc, * fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, skip the first two fpdc, fptc, fptc. Now behind the two fptc you just did go back to the first stitch you skipped and fptc, fptc in the second stitch you skipped, sc in the stitch next to the first fptc you did, sc. Repeat from * until you get to the last 4 stitches. fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc
Row 6: ch 1, sc all the way across

That's it that's all you need to create these amazing looking cables.

Repeat rows 2-6 until you get your desired length. I repeated this 11 times ending on a non crossover row for a total of 77 rows. I decided that I wanted the seem to line up without the crossover, but you could absolutely end on that if that's your desired look.




Put the two panels together cable side in and pin. Leave yourself 8 inches for the arm holes and 9.5 for the neck. Sew up the sides and across the top. I decided to start about 2 inches from the bottom, but that's just a stylistic choice.

Next you're going to add the sleeves. I decided that having cables on every row in the sleeves would be far too busy. I also decided I wanted a slightly looser stitch than doing sc for the sleeves so I went with hdc.

I always start in the arm pit with my sleeves to hide the seems and the reductions in rows.

Row 1: ch 2, hdc around the arm picking up 38 stitches, slip stitch to join
Row 2: ch 2, hdc around, slip stitch to join.
Row 3-11: repeat row 2


I find that if I don't do a stitch in the ch stitch that my rows reduce by 1 stitch each round. As you work through rows 2-11 you want to reduce from 38 stitches to 32 stitches for row 12.

Row 12: ch 1, * sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc. Repeat from * until you get to the last 2 stitches. sc, sc, slip stitch to join
Row 13: sc all the way around, slip stitch to join
Row 14: ch 1, * sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc, fpdc. Repeat from * until you get to the last 2 stitches. sc, sc, slip stitch to join

Row 15: sc all the way around, slip stitch to join
Row 16:ch 1, * sc, sc, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, skip the first two fpdc, fptc, fptc. Now behind the two fptc you just did go back to the first stitch you skipped and fptc, fptc in the second stitch you skipped. Repeat from * until you get to the last 2 stitches. sc, sc, slip stitch to join
Row 17: sc all the way around, slip stitch to join
Row 18-27: ch 2, hdc around, slip stitch to join.
Weave in all your ends.




I actually wanted to make this into a turtleneck, but alas I ran out of yarn so I just did one round around with sc and used the last of the ends that I had.

I'm really pleased with how this turned out and am looking forward for it to be chilly enough to get cozy in this.




I'm already working on my next cabled pattern. I had another skein of this yarn, but in Antique Rose. My original plan was to use it as an accent color, but it just didn't work out where the accent color worked so scarf it is! I'm trying out the Double Cabled Square and I'm loving it.

I am a bit of a fly by the seat of my pants crocheter. I never follow other people's patterns exactly. I never do guage. I make patterns up and then play yarn chicken to get to the end. Sometimes I lose at yarn chicken and have to alter my patterns as I'm making them.

All that said - I still think I make some pretty cool things. I have improved immensely over the last few years. A good part of that I think has been making my own designs vs following others. Having to at least have a lose plan for what I'm doing has made me more conscious of what I'm doing. I kind of relate that to what's happened with all the electronic maps. Before I could just plug stuff into Google Maps, I would think about my route. Now because I can just plug it in I do. Sometimes Google takes you a way that is not ideal.

This was true when we were on our way up to the Finger Lakes earlier this month. Did we get to our destination - yes? Could we have stayed on 81 longer and not made 50 turns at night on small back roads - yes!

What got me thinking about this is my new cable sweater I'm making. For some reason when I crochet with cables it comes out as a rhombus. I don't know if this always happens or it's just me. However, I do know that this is when I should block. So this is me blocking my cable sweater before I sew it together so it doesn't look all wonky. Maybe I should do this more often :)

I love this yarn. I know I say that a lot, but I do. This yarn comes from Greenwood Hill Farm and is 100% Merino Wool. These gorgeous colors are the natural colors of the sheep. The colors here are Slate and Silver.




This pattern uses a 4 mm hook and took 3 skeins of the slate and 2 skeins of the silver. Each skein is 180 yards.
Stitches:
ch - chain
sk st - skip stitch
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tc - triple crochet

The cast on for this is in multiples of 16 + 2. On the back side I did 66 stitches. I wasn't sure if the shirt was going to be big enough so on the front side I did 80 stitches. Some of you might be thinking - how does that work the front and the back being different number of stitches? When you sew it together you just leave the extra stitches in the neck. It does mean that the shirt has an obvious front side. You can decide to do what I did or have two exactly the same size.

It's also worth noting that all of the even rows are sc all the way across.




Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain from the hook, * ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch, sk st, dc, ch, sk st, tc, ch, sk st, tc, ch, sk st, dc, ch, sk st, hdc, ch, sk st, sc, ch, sk st, sc. Repeat from * ending on a sc
Row 2: sc in each chain across
Row 3: ch 4, tc, *ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch 1, sk st, sc, ch 1, sk st, sc, ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, tr, ch 1, sk st, tr. Repeat from * ending on a tc
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: ch 2, sk 2, sc, * ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch, sk st, dc, ch, sk st, tc, ch, sk st, tc, ch, sk st, dc, ch, sk st, hdc, ch, sk st, sc, ch, sk st, sc. Repeat from * ending on a sc
Repeat Rows 2-5 for pattern always ending on an even row.
Row 43: change colors and continue rows 43-52 in the second color.
Make your second panel deciding whether you're going to make it the same width or 16 stitches wider.

Line up the two panels on the outside and pin. If you've made the front panel larger then pay attention to the back panel. You want a neck opening that is about 10 inches wide. Measure the middle and then go 5 inches in either direction. Line up the front panel starting with the shoulder - you will have extra material in the neck in the front panel.

Sew up the sides. I almost always start my sides 1.5 to 2 inches from the bottom. Leave an arm hole that is 8 inches wide at the top.




For the sleeves use the same color as the top. I always start my sleeves in the armpit so I wasn't too concerned at getting exactly 66 stitches. Start your yarn and sc around. I picked up 62 stitches ending on a hdc. Sl st to join.
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain from the hook, * ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch, sk st, dc, ch, sk st, tc, ch, sk st, tc, ch, sk st, dc, ch, sk st, hdc, ch, sk st, sc, ch, sk st, sc. Repeat from *. Depending on how many stitches you picked up your ending might be different. With 62 I ended on a hdc. Sl st to join
Row 2: sc in each chain across
Row 3: ch 4, tc, *ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch 1, sk st, sc, ch 1, sk st, sc, ch 1, sk st, hdc, ch 1, sk st, dc, ch 1, sk st, tr, ch 1, sk st, tr. Repeat from *. Sl st to join
Row 4: Repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 3
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1. You're going to start tapering in so end on a dc instead of the hdc
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3. Taper again end on a sc
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13 repeat row 1. Taper again end on a tc
Row 14: repeat row 2
Row 15: repeat row 3. Last taper end on a hdc
Row 16: repeat row 2.

Weave in all of your ends and you're done!

This yarn is so soft. It's made from silk, merino, and sea cell. What is sea cell you ask? Sea cell is a fiber that's made from seaweed! I got this yarn at the Maryland Sheep and Wool having never heard of sea cell. All I knew is that it was just so soft and silky. This particular yarn came from Yarn Hygge. Something about these colors cried out color block to me. I used 2 skeins each of Blues, Silver, and Burgandy. Each skein is approzimately 240 yards.




This pattern uses a 5mm hook.
Stitches:
sk - skip
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
scblo - single crochet back loop only
hdc - half double crochet
hdcblo - half double crochet back loop only
bobble - yarn over, pull loop up, yarn over, pull loop up, yarn over (7 loops on hook), pull all the way through

This sweater is made using the mesh stitch with a bobble which is addapted from a popcorn mesh stitch. Cast on in multiples of 6 + 2. For the back panel I cast on 56 (54 + 2).




Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * ch 3, sk 2 chains, bobble in next chain, ch 3, sk 2 chains, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, * 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble, 3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc. Repeat from * across.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the same sc, * ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc, ch 3, sk next 3**, bobble. Repeat from * across ending with the **, dc in last stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc, *3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc, 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 3, sk 3 sc, bobble in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.

You're going to repeat rows 2-5 until you reach your desired length. The big decision was how big to make the color blocks. I ended up deciding that each block should be 26 rows. Based on that....rows 1-26 are burgandy, rows 27-52 are silver, and rows 57-78 are blues. You could absolutely change this up to make the blocks, bigger smaller, or even stripes. What's important for this pattern to look right is that you change out on an odd row. The even rows make the row below it look finished.




For the side panels do the exact same pattern as you did for the back, but make them narrower. For my sweater I cast on 24. Make 2 side panels.
Next step is to sew the side panels to the back panel. I found that this was easier than on a lot of sweaters because all I had to do was line up the holes. The top of the side panel and the back panel are sewed together across. There will end up being 3 holes between the two side panels. For the arms I measured to get about 8 inches and found that each hole was about an inch so I left 8 holes open on either side. Finally, I left 2 holes open at the bottom - this is purely asthetic. Since this sweater is rather holey I decided when sewing up the sides that I wanted to use the color of the color block as I sewed and have a little overlap rather than pick 1 color to sew with. This made my seems much less noticeable.

Next step is to do the arms. We're going to repeat the same pattern as above except the last stitch for each will turn into a slip stitch. If you've been reading my patterns you know that I'm not super dilligent on you must pick up x number of stitches on the arm hole. Most of the time my sleeve patterns stitches are in 1s or 2s. For this pattern it matters more because we want to be able to have the nice bobble mesh. What's nice though is that you can line up with the holes. However, by this time you should be comfortable with the overall pattern so if you pick up in a multiple of 3 vs 6 - it's not a big deal. I picked up 9 "holes" for a total of 59 stitches.
For the sleeves I made the determination to make the color blocks smaller. I ended up deciding each block should be 14 rows so based on that...rows 1-14 are blues, rows 15-28 are silver, and rows 29-43 are burgandy (yes I know there's an extra row, I'll explain later).
I always start arms on tops in the arm pit so it hides the seams a bit. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * ch 3, sk 2 chains, bobble in next chain, ch 3, sk 2 chains, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join. Note: if you're in a multiple of 3 vs 6 then you'll join after the sc instead of the bobble.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, * 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble, 3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the same sc, * ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc, ch 3, sk next 3**, bobble. Repeat from * across ending with the **, slip stitch to join. Note: if you're in a multiple of 3 vs 6 then you'll join after the bobble instead of the sc.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc, *3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc, 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 3, sk 3 sc, bobble in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc. Repeat from * across, slip stitch to join. Note: if you're in a multiple of 3 vs 6 then you'll join after the bobble instead of the sc.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 8: Repeat row 4.
Row 9: Repeat row 5.
Row 10: Repeat row 2.
Row 11: This is our first decrease. Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 12: Repeat row 4.
Row 13: Repeat row 5 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 14: Repeat row 2.
Row 15: Change colors. Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 16: Repeat row 4.
Row 17: Repeat row 5 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 18: Repeat row 2.
Row 19: Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 20: Repeat row 4.
Row 21: Repeat row 5.
Row 22: Repeat row 2.
Row 23: Repeat row 3.
Row 24: Repeat row 4.
Row 25: Repeat row 5.
Row 26: Repeat row 2.
Row 27: Repeat row 3 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 28: Repeat row 4.
Row 29: Change colors. Repeat row 5 except don't do the last 2 chains. You'll join from your last bobble or sc (depending on if you started from 3 or 6) and slip stitch to the sc.
Row 30: Repeat row 2.
Row 31: Repeat row 3.
Row 32: Repeat row 4.
Row 33: Repeat row 5.
Row 34: Repeat row 2.
Row 35: Repeat row 3.
Row 36: Repeat row 4.
Row 37: Repeat row 5.
Row 38: Repeat row 2.
Row 39: Repeat row 3.
Row 40: Repeat row 4.
Row 41: Repeat row 5.
Row 42: Repeat row 2.
Row 43: Repeat row 3.
Row 44: ch 2, hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to join.






Now let's work on the edging. Turn the sweater right side out, with it flat in front of you pick up the bottom right edge. Using the silver yarn chain 2. For each hole that you have in the lace you need 4 stitches. I did 1 in the "post" of the hole and then 3 in the in betweens. For this you're going to want to do the stitches into the stitches and not the chain space to make it look good as the edging. You're going to hdc up the right side, across the back and then down the left side.

Edging: Row 1: ch 2, hdc all the way around ending on the bottom left corner
Row 2: ch 2, hdc blo all the way around
Row 3: ch 1, sc all the way around
Row 4: ch 1, sc blo all the way around Row 5: Change colors to blues. ch 1, sc all the way around

Row 6: ch 1, sc blo all the way around




Last step now is the pockets. My original plan was to make them out of the silver since that's the panel they'll be on, but I ran out of silver. I actually really like the way it looks with the burgandy pickets, really makes them pop.
Cast on 17. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. * ch 3, sk 2 chains, bobble in next chain, ch 3, sk 2 chains, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, * 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble, 3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc. Repeat from * across.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the same sc, * ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc, ch 3, sk next 3**, bobble. Repeat from * across ending with the **, dc in last stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc, *3 sc in the chain space, sc in the sc, 3 sc in the chain space, skip the bobble. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, * ch 3, sk 3 sc, bobble in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc. Repeat from * across, sc in the last stitch.

Repeat row 2-5. End on row 16 (8 holes). Make 2 pockets.

I knew I didn't want the pockets to cross the color block. I ended up placing them 1 back from the edge and 2 up from the silver/burgandy color change. Sew them around.

I started off wanting to make a butterfly shawl, but with these colors I think leaf is much more appropriate. This yarn is from Feederbrook Farm and is their silk DK weight yarn. I bought this at the Maryland Sheep and Wool and the colors aren't listed, but its 2 skeins of a burnt orange color, 2 of a cranberry red color, a skein of dark brown, and a skein of a nice deep purple for a total of about 1500 yards.




This didn't come out exactly perfect as the top isn't entirely flat, but once its on you'll never notice it. I think it's because of the different types of stitches that I used trying to create some different texture. The single crochets definitely aren't as wide as the other stitches. I used the same color until it ran out and always switched on rows.




This uses a 4 mm hook.
Stitches used:
ch - chain
ch sp - chain space
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tc - treble crochet
bphdc - back post half double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet
shell - 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc
v-stitch - 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc
sk st - skipt stitch
bobble - yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull up (7 loops), pull all the way through
picot - chain 3, insert the hook into the same stitch and pull it through

Start with a magic ring with the orange
Row 1: ch3, 7 dc, 1 trb
Row 2: ch3, 1dc in same st, *2dc in next st*. Repeat from *. In the last stich 1 dc and 1 trb
Row 3: ch5, sk st, *1 dc in next 4 sts, ch 2, sk st. Repeat from * 1 tc in last st
Row 4: ch3, in the chain space (1dc, 2ch, 2dc), *sk st, 1 dc, ch2, 1 dc, sk st, shell in the next ch space *, Repeat from * once. Sk st, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, sk st, in next ch sp 2dc, 2ch, 1dc, 1trb in last st
Row 5: ch3, sk st, * in next ch sp shell, 1 dc, sk st in the next 2 sts, in next ch sp v-stitch, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc. Repeat from *. In the last ch sp shell, sk st, 1 tc in the last stitch
Row 6: ch3, sk st, 1 dc, *In next ch sp shell, dc, dc, sk 2 sts, v-stitch, sk 2 sts, dc, dc. Repeat until end with a tr in the last stitch.

Ok so here is the pattern to follow for the rest of the shawl - in row 5 there was 1 dc between the shell and the v, in row 6 there were 2, in row 7 there will be 3....are you seeing the pattern here? The number of stitches between the shell and the v increases by 1 every row from now on. That's the big secret for this. Like I said before I decided to make it texturally interesting so I experimented with different stitches. You can follow my path or create your own.




Row 7-9: dc
Row 10: alternate dc with 3 dc in the same stitch
Row 11: dc
ROw 12: alternate dc with 3 dc in the same stitch
Row 13: dc
ROw 14: alternate dc with 3 dc in the same stitch
Row 15: dc
Row 16: hdc
Change colors - red
Row 17: sc
Row 18-20: sc, ch
Row 21: hdc
Row 22: dc
Row 23: hdc
Row 24: sc
Row 25: bp hdc
Row 26: bp dc
Row 27: bp hdc
Row 28: sc
Change colors - brown
Row 29-30: 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st
Row 31: dc
Row 32-33: 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st
Row 34: sc
Change colors - orange
Row 35: dc, ch
Row 36: 2 dc in the same stitch, sk st
Row 37: dc, ch
Row 38: 2 dc in the same stitch, sk st
Row 39: dc, ch
Row 40: sc
Change colors - red
Row 41: hdc, ch
Row 42: dc
Row 43: hdc, ch
Row 44: 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st
Row 45: hdc, ch
Row 46: 2 hdc in the same stitch, sk st
Row 47: hdc, ch





Continue to use the red at this point to do a sc across the flat top. This helps to even it out if it hasn't been even.
Change colors - purple
Row 48: bobble, ch
Row 49: tc, ch 3. In the shell spaces ch 5 instead of ch 3
Row 50: * sc, hdc, dc, hdc. Repeat from *. In the shell space - sc, hdc, dc, tc, dc, hdc. For the v-stitch make sure you still sk a stitch then just sc in the 2 chains
Row 51: sc in the sc and hdc stitches. Picot in all the dc stitches (and in the tr for the shells)
When you get to the end sc across the top again.